Tea

The Camellia sinensis plant is a small shrub about 1-2 meters in height, though it will grow taller if you don't prune it. In the fall, your tea shrub will flower with small white blossoms that have a delightful scent. These plants are often grown as ornamentals. For planting, Camellia sinensis likes well-drained and sandy soil that is on the acidic side. If you are going to grow your tea in a container, add some sphagnum moss to the potting mix. You'll need some patience, too. Your plant should be around 3 years old before you start harvesting leaves. You might be able to get seeds at your local nursary, or try online at Seedrack.com. Growing tea is only half the battle. Once your tea plant is growing well, you'll need to harvest and process your tea leaves. From your plant, you can make black, green or oolong tea. Green Tea
Pluck the very youngest leaves and leaf buds.
Blot the leaves dry, and let dry in the shade for a few hours.
Steam the leaves (like you would vegetables) on your stove for about a minute.
For a different flavour, try roasting them in a skillet for 2 minutes instead of steaming.
Spread the leaves on a baking sheet and dry in the oven at 250F for 20 minutes.
Store the dried tea leaves in an air-tight containerOolong Tea
Pluck the very youngest leaves and leaf buds.
Spread them out on a towel under the sun and let them wilt for about 45 minutes.
Bring your leaves inside and let them sit at room temperature for a few hours.
Make sure to stir the leaves up every hour.
The edges of the leaves will start to turn red as they begin to dry.
Spread the leaves on a baking sheet and dry in the oven at 250F for 20 minutes.
Store the dried tea leaves in an air-tight container.Black Tea
Pluck the very youngest leaves and leaf buds.
Roll the leaves between your hands, and crush them until the leaves start to darken and turn red.
Spread them out on a tray, and leave them in a cool location for 2-3 days.
Dry them in the oven at 250F for about 20 minutes.
Store in an air-tight container.Once you get the hang of it, try experimenting with different drying times to get different tastes. Mix your teas with jasmine or hibiscus flowers for a lovely summer tea right from your garden.

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Comfrey

Medicinal use of comfrey
Comfrey has long been known in Britain as a medicinal herb, its common name was ‘knitbone’. Supposed to assist in healing broken bones and skin complaints, many still use products from it for those purposes.
In the nineteenth century a Quaker smallholder, Henry Doubleday, became intrigued by the possibilities of Russian Comfrey as a useful crop. Leap forward to 1954 and Lawrence D Hills took up the cause. Almost as a side effect he started what has become Europe’s largest organic gardening association, the HDRA.
Comfrey contains high levels of the basic NPK nutrients, drawn up from the deep by its extensive root system. As such it can be useful as animal feed and as plant feed. The plant re-grows from small root cuttings and, as a weed, is very difficult to eradicate.
On the HDRA trial ground at Bocking in Essex, L D Hills developed the most valuable variety, Bocking 14. High in nutrients and sterile (you don’t want comfrey popping up all over the place) Bocking 14 is exclusively propagated from root cuttings.

Allotment Uses of Comfrey
If you are able to keep chickens on your allotment you can feed wilted comfrey to them.
As a compost activator - comfrey is so rich that it not only enriches your heaps but encourages them to heat up.
The first cut of the year, in spring, should go in to the furrow before the potatoes. The liquid feed will also be good for potatoes as will chopped wilted leaves as a mulch - before the foliage gets too dense to effectively spread it.
As a mulch and as a liquid feed for tomatoes, runner and dwarf beans.
Mix with leafmould to make a base for potting compost.
Comfrey Roots
Cultivation of Comfrey
Location and Preparation of your Comfrey Bed
Comfrey is a pretty tough plant that will grow from small pieces of root so do choose your location with care. It is easier to kill most weeds than comfrey. If you do need to move a comfrey bed the old bed will need to be killed off. Your best bet will be to use a weedkiller like ammonium sulphamate .
Comfrey will thrive in full sun or in partial to near full shade - there is usually a disused corner that will make a great site for your comfrey bed. It doesn't like thin, chalky soils and the roots go down a fair way so dig deeply and break up the subsoil to get it off to a good start. Light sandy soils will benefit from organic matter. Being a fleshy plant it will need a lot of water and a soggy patch will be a plus.
Turn the soil over and remove any perennial weed roots. Comfrey grows very densely and will be difficult to weed. It does tend to shade out most weeds once established. If you have any manure - even poultry manure - fork this into the top 6 inches of the soil. Comfrey is great for soaking up nutrients and, unlike most plants, will not burn with raw manure.
Obtaining Comfrey , Planting and the growing for the first year.
You can obtain plants from The Organic Gardening Catalogue for most of the year but, if you can, plant in March, April, May or September for best results. I start the plants off in pots - just to get them off to a good start - and then plant out. You can plant directly but I like to ensure success, especially as they can cost over a pound each!
Block plant around 2 to 3 feet apart and stand back. You will be surprised how quickly they grow. When the flowers appear take a cut. I use a pair of shears and cut about 6 inches from the ground. Comfrey has little hairs on the leaves, which can irritate. Not quite a cactus but near, so wear gloves.
Come winter the plants go dormant and a good layer of manure can be applied.
Harvesting and Propagating Comfrey
In the second year your comfrey patch starts to really pay off. In the spring it will leap back from its winter sleep. Your first cut will get the spuds off to a good start. After that you should get at least a further 3 cuts - even 4.
To get further plants, push your spade through the middle of a plant and lever up a portion. Take root cuttings (about 2 inches long) and away you go again. Be careful as the bits left over will happily root wherever they fall.
Making Comfrey Liquid Compost or Comfrey Tea
Comfrey can be made into a wonderful liquid feed – it is quite simple. Take a barrel or tub, add comfrey leaves, fill with water and leave for 3 to 5 weeks. Warning! It will smell like an open sewer when finished. The liquid can be used as a tomato feed. I tried this with a tub with a tap but it was always getting blocked, but if you put the leaves into an old potato sack it solves this problem.

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Elder

PlantingElderberries grow best in moist, fertile, well-drained soil with a pH between 5.5 and 6.5, but will tolerate a wide range of soil texture, fertility, and acidity. It’s a myth that they prefer swampy areas. In fact, they do not tolerate poor drainage. Plant elderberries in spring, as soon as possible after they arrive from the nursery to prevent plants from drying out. Space plants 6 to 10 feet apart. Elderberries are shallow rooted, so keep them well-watered during the first season. Plants are easy to propagate from hardwood cuttings taken when plants are dormant.
FertilizingElderberries respond well to fertilization. In addition to incorporating manure or compost before planting, apply additional fertilizer annually in early spring. Apply 1/8 pound of ammonium nitrate (or .5 lbs. 10-10-10) for each year of the plant’s age, up to one pound per plant (or up to 4 lbs. 10-10-10).
Weed ControlThe most difficult problem faced when growing elderberries is weed control. Because they have shallow roots, do not cultivate deeper than 2 inches. After the first year, it is best to avoid disturbing the soil at all because the slightest injury can damage the fibrous root system or kill one of the new upright shoots. Use a combination of pulling weeds by hand while they are still small, mowing and mulching to control weeds without disturbing the elderberry roots. Once you develop a thick hedgerow of plants, elderberries can suppress weeds quite well.
HarvestHarvest elderberry fruit in late August through early September, depending on the cultivar. When ripe, the entire cluster should be -removed and the berries stripped from the cluster for use. Uncooked berries have a dark purple juice and are astringent and inedible. Use the fruit as soon as possible or keep it at a cool temperature for later use. It is difficult to transport elderberries because the fruits fall off the cluster during transit.
PruningElderberries send up many new canes each year. The canes usually reach full height in one season and develop lateral branches in the second. Flowers and fruit develop on the tips of the current season’s growth, often on the new canes but especially on laterals. Second-year elderberry canes with good lateral development are the most fruitful. In the third or fourth year, older wood tends to lose vigor and become weak. In late winter to early spring while the plants are dormant, remove all dead, broken or weak canes, plus all canes more than three years old. Leave an equal number of one, two, and three-year-old canes.
Choosing cultivarsIndividual flowers are small, white, and borne in large compound clusters. They are nearly self-unfruitful, so plant two different cultivars within 60 feet of each other to provide adequate cross-pollination. ‘Adams No. 1′ and ‘Adams No. 2′ are two old cultivars, introduced by the New York State Agricultural Experiment Station in 1926. They are strong, vigorous, productive, hardy to Zone 4 and bear large fruit clusters. They also ripen late, with fruit maturing in early September. Other cultivars with large clusters and berries include ‘York’,’ Johns’,’ Kent’,'Nova’, and ‘Scotia’. ‘York’ is somewhat more productive than the Adams series, and the berries tend to be larger.Diseases and InsectsElderberry plants are generally free of pests, which makes them great for landscape plantings. Powdery mildew is a problem in some years, especially when it affects the fruit. Cane borers occasionally cause damage, but are usually not present in large numbers. Pruning out infested canes is the best remedy for home gardeners.
sourced from:

www.fruit.cornell.edu/mfruit/elderberries.html

Tea Tree

Camillia species originated primarily in Japan and China.Apparently, growing this species of camellia from seed is verydifficult. Cloning from an established bush is recommended.?All species of camellia originated in Asia; mostly in Japan andChina. Camellia species are still found there in the wild today.

Young plants are raised from cuttings obtained from a mother bush andthey are carefully rooted and cared for in special nurseries untilthey are 1 to 2 years of age. The mother bush is carefully selectedfor propagation based on individual properties and yield. The teaplants can then be transplanted out in the tea fields. This process is known as cloning. Tea can also be grown from seed, however, due tothe degree of difficulty, cloning is the most widely used method ofcultivating tea. Tea bushes are planted from three to four feet apartand planted in rows which follow the natural contour of the landscape.Tea is also grown on specially prepared terraces to help irrigationand to prevent soil erosion.

Consider a greenhouse if you don?t live in a correct weather zone:?The tea shrub is hardy to Zone 8 (The country is broken up into'zones' with similar temperature and weather patterns. Zone 8 ismid-west to southern USA). If you don't live in these areas, don'tfret. You could try growing Camellia sinensis in a greenhouse, or in apot that you can bring indoors during cold winters.??For planting, Camellia sinensis likes well-drained and sandy soilthat is on the acidic side. If you are going to grow your tea in acontainer, add some sphagnum moss to the potting mix. You'll need somepatience, too. Your plant should be around 3 years old before youstart harvesting leaves.

Plant seeds immediately in a jar three-quarters full of moistvermiculite. Cover jar with lid or saran (with rubber band). Place jarin warm (not hot) place, and check periodically for roots along sidesor in bottom of jar. Remove sprouted seedlings and plant in pots.Return unsprouted seeds to jar, replace top, and watch for more roots.Seeds will not all sprout at the same time.

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Marigold

Annual, Tagetas Ercta, Tagetas Patula
Marigold plants are a very prolific, easy to grow annual flower. Kids love 'em and adults love 'em. Marigold flowers are available in a variety of colors, including white, yellow, orange, red and mixed colors. Marigold Flowers will bloom from mid-summer all the way until frost. They can be used for indoor arrangements, but give off a pungent odor that is sometimes too strong indoors.
Did you Know? Marigolds are considered companion plants that keep insects away. Many gardeners grow them amidst their vegetable crops.

Propagation:
Marigolds are grown from seeds. They like full to partial sun. Marigold seeds can be directly sowed into your flower garden, or seeded indoors for transplanting later. We recommend planting Marigolds in pots and containers indoors, then transplanting them outdoors. This allows you to make the proper spacing without the need for thinning seedlings.
Sow Marigold seeds early in the season and cover lightly with soil. Water thoroughly once. They germinate easily and will grow quickly, producing their first of a continual display of blooms by mid-summer.
Transplant Marigold plants into your garden after the last frost date for your area. Spacing depends upon size with miniature varieties spaced four to six inches apart, and Giant varieties one to two feet apart.
How to Grow Marigold Flowers:
Marigold plants like rich, well drained soil, but are very tolerant of average to slightly poor soils. Improving your soil quality will produce much healthier plants and flowers, so add plenty of compost. Add a general purpose fertilizer once a month.
Once your Marigolds are established, they should grow well, even if left unattended. Soil should be moist, but not wet. Water them during dry periods, once or twice per week.
Add mulch around the plants for appearance and to keep weeds down.
Around mid-summer, your plants will begin to produce flowers and will continue to do so up to the first frost. You do not need remove dead flower blooms, except for appearance.
Marigolds are annuals and susceptible to frost. They may survive the first light frost with only a little damage. They will not survive a hard frost or freeze.
Insect and Disease:
Insects largely avoid Marigolds. Insects do not like it's pungent odor. This is why Marigolds make good companion plants. You can even make an insect repellent spray from these plants.

While insects avoid Marigolds, slugs can do major damage. Slugs like to slither up the stem and chew on the leaves. They can destroy an entire flower garden of Marigolds. They can be seen on the plants overnight, in wet weather and early morning. If an infestation occurs, treat quickly to avoid major damage.

soursed from:

http://www.gardenersnet.com/flower/marigold.htm

Almond

An almond is a nutritious nut grown inside the fruit of an almond tree. The almond tree has the same classification as a peach tree. It is natively grown in Southwest Asia. An almond tree grows from 13 feet up to 30 feet tall. Growing your almond tree is fairly easy but requires two to three years to reach maturity. Read on to learn how to grow almonds.

Step1

Pick an area for the almond tree that receives full sunlight. The soil around the almond tree needs to be rich with nutrients.

Step2

Dig a hole for the tree that is large enough to bury the roots of the tree as well as any soil surrounding the roots from the tree's container.

Step3

Remove the tree from the container. Be careful not to harm any roots. Spread the roots out in the hole that you have dug. Fill in the hole around the tree.

Step4

Place plenty of compost or fertilizer over the tree roots and water thoroughly. Add more soil around the roots if needed.

Step5

Stick a small pipe or piece of wood into the ground to brace the tree. The almond tree grows quickly in the first year, but the trunk will not hold up to strong winds. Tie the almond tree to a pole or piece of wood.

Step6

Fertilize the tree with compost or fruit tree fertilizer. This is a good way to spike the growth of a new tree.

Step7

Maintain the almond tree by pruning the branchesevery year. This is best done in late winter or early spring before the new growth appears. When pruning, cut off dead and unhealthy branches first and then thin out areas where growth is bushy. Prune the bushy areas to allow sunlight and air to penetrate the tree, helping the overall growth of the tree.

Step8

Harvest the tree. The almond tree produces a small fruit during it's blooming season. When the fruit dies, it splits to reveal the pit, which is the almond. This is the ideal time to harvest the tree.

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German Chamomile

German Chamomile
An erect annual (Matricaria recutita), with small, daisylike flowers, is used to make chamomile tea and posessing a number of medicinal qualities.German Chamomile seeds are one of the few seeds that need light to germinate, so starting them by seed is a delicate process. It is best planted outdoors in August by broadcasting the seed and mixing very lightly with the soil. Alternatively, they can be started indoors in propagation flats in March and transplanted outdoors after a hardening off period. In most cases, direct planting in the garden after all chance of frost has passed are successful, as well. Once they are firmly established, German Chamomile is extremely hardy.Chamomile tea can be sprayed on propagation flats to prevent damping off. It is also believed to increase the absorption of calcium when added to a compost pile.

Growing German ChamomileGrowing CulturesOutdoors, containers, landscaping, mass plantings. German chamomile not recommended for containers.Plant HeightChamomile grows to a height of 20 to 30 inches (50 - 70cm).

Plant SpacingChamomile plants should be spaced 6 inches (15 cm) apart.Preferred pH RangeChamomile will grow in a relatively wide pH range between 5.6 (acidic) and 7.5 (neutral).

PropagationFrom seed. Direct sow in spring or fall. Fall sown seeds germinate following spring. Seeds need light to germinate.Seed Germination Period7 to 14 days.Seeds Per Gram (Approximate)10,000 to 18.000.Soil RequirementsWell drained, poor to average soil.

Alternative Growing MediaSoilless potting mixes, perlite, vermiculite, rockwool, coco peat, Oasis foam.Time From Seed to Saleable PlantSeeds to finished plugs, 6 weeks; plugs to saleable plants, 6 to 6 weeks.Sun & Lighting RequirementsChamomile grown outdoors prefers full sun but will tolerate some shade.Chives will grow indoors satisfactorily under standard fluorescent lamps, and exceptionally well under high output fluorescent , compact fluorescent, or high intensity discharge (metal halide or high pressure sodium) plant growing lights.

Keep standard fluorescent lamps between 2 and 4 inches from the tops of the plants, high output and compact fluorescents approximately one foot above the plants, and HID lights between 2 and 4 feet above the plants, depending on wattage. Have an oscillating fan gently stir seedlings for at least 2 hours per day to stimulate shorter, sturdier, and more natural plant habit.USDA HardinessAnnual.

Water RequirementsWater on a regular schedule, taking care to not overwater.Potential Pests & DiseasesAphids, mealybug. Minimal disease issues.Special NotesChamomile may be considered a noxious weed or invasive plant in some areas. Chamomile is known to attract bees, butterflies or birds and has fragrant blossoms. Chamomile self-sows freely; remove flowers (deadhead) if you do not want volunteer seedlings the following season.

soursed from:

http://herbgardening.com/growingchamomile.htm

Viola

Violas are primarily cool season bloomers. They are perfect for starting and ending the season in colder climates and for bridging the seasons in warmer zones, where they can remain in bloom throughout the winter. So when to plant violas will depends on your climate.
Starting Violas from Seed Indoors - Violas are easy to start from seed. In fact they are quite happy to self-seed all over your garden. But if you would like to start your own indoors, the process is very straight forward.
Start seed about 4 - 6 weeks before transplanting. Violas can withstand some freezing temperatures, so cold climate gardeners can pick a transplant date that is about 4 weeks before your last expected frost date. Warm climate gardeners transplanting in the fall should start their seeds in mid-summer.
Use a sterile potting mix.
Moisten the mix and fill your flats or pots to about 1/4 inch below the top edge.
Sprinkle 2-3 seeds in each cell or pot and cover lightly with more moistened potting mix. Note: Violas need darkness to germinate, so cover the seeds completely.
Set in a warm (65 -70 degrees F. / 18 - 21 degrees C.) location and keep moist. On top of the refrigerator is a good spot. Seeds should begin to germinate in 10 - 14 days.
Once the seeds sprout, move them to a sunny window or place under plant lights.
When the first true leaves appear, thin the pot or cell to the strongest looking seeding by pinching or cutting the others at the soil line.
At this point, a temperature of 55 - 60 degrees F. / 13 - 15 degrees C. is fine. You can also begin feeding your seedlings with any good balanced, water soluble fertilizer.
Moving Your Viola Seedling Outdoors - When temperatures and weather permit transplanting outdoors, let the seedlings get adjusted to the change by hardening them off.
Move the seedling to a shaded or protected location outdoors.
Leave them outdoors for about 4 hours the first day and increase the time outside by 1-2 hours each day, slowly moving them into brighter light. The seedlings will tell you if they are unhappy by their appearance.
Make sure the soil stays moist. Outdoor winds can dry pots quickly.
Seedlings can be transplanted into the garden or containers after about 10 - 14 days of hardening. Just be sure the weather isn’t taking a down turn. Violas can withstand some frost, but not a late season snow storm.
Direct-seeding Violas into the Garden - Weather permitting, you can start viola seed directly in the garden.
Good well-draining soil with organic matter is recommended.
Loosen the soil in the planting area and moisten.
Sprinkle the viola seed.
Cover with about 1/4 soil and water well.
Keep the seed bed moist.
As seedlings develop, thin plants to about 6- 8 inches apart. Transplant excess seedlings.
Purchasing Bedding Viola Plants - Violas are often the first seedlings for sale in nurseries in spring in colder climates and at the end of the summer in warm areas.
Look for healthy plants with lots of buds. Don’t be overly tempted by plants already in flower. They won’t transplant as easily and you’ll have a longer season of bloom if the plants are only in bud when purchased.
Remove the viola plants from their cell packs by pushing up on the bottom of the container. Don’t grab the violas by their delicate stems.
Gently loosen the soil around the roots and plant in the ground at the same level as they were in their cell pack.
Spacing: Mounding violas should be spaced about 6-8 inches apart. Trailing or spreading varieties can be planted 10-12 inches apart.
Days to Bloom: Violas begin blooming about 12-14 weeks after planting seeds. V. tricolor varieties bloom about two weeks earlier than V. cornuta. ‘Penny’ and ‘Sorbet’ will bloom 9-10 weeks from sowing.
Here are some suggestons for selecting , using and caring for violas in your garden designs and containers.

Caring for Violas in the Garden
Soil: Violas grow best in rich, moist, well-drained soil with plenty of organic matter. Use a slow-release fertilizer into the soil if planting in a container.
Water: Water regularly, but allow to dry out between waterings.
Sun: Violas like full sun, but not the heat it brings. This isn’t a problem in cool spring temperatures , but when planting in the fall, make sure they get some shade during the hottest part of the afternoon. Mulch and water will help offset the stress of high temperature.
Maintenance:
To promote blooming and extend the flowering period, remove or deadhead faded flowers by pinching off the blooms at the base of the flower stem.
You can revive leggy or overgrown plants by cutting them back to about 3-4 inches tall.
Insects and Diseases: Violas are easy to grow, with few disease or insect problems.
Powdery Mildew and Botrytis (Gray Mold) - Don’t let your plants sit in cool, wet conditions. Make sure your violas get plenty of sunshine and have good air circulation.
Aphids - Wash off with a strong stream of water, or, for severe problems, treat with an insecticidal soap.
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Lavender

Undeterred by the fact that it is a native of the Mediterranean and a lover of dry, sunny, rocky habitats, we give it a try anyway, hoping it will adapt. After all, England can hardly be considered dry or particularly sunny, yet English gardeners are renowned for their lavender plants. Think of ‘Hidcote’ and ‘Munstead’, two of the hardiest and best loved lavender varieties. This is a good place to start a discussion on growing lavender.
Growing Requirements As with most plants, your success in growing this coveted plant will depend both on what kind of growing conditions you can provide and which varieties you select to grow. Lavender plants will tolerate many growing conditions, but it thrives in warm, well-drained soil and full sun. Like many plants grown for their essential oils, a lean soil will encourage a higher concentration of oils. An alkaline and especially chalky soil will enhance lavenders fragrance. While you can grow lavender in Zone 5, it is unlikely you will ever have a lavender hedge. More realistically you can expect to have plants that will do well when the weather cooperates and to experience the occasional loss of a plant or two after a severe winter or a wet, humid summer.
Lavender is a tough plant and is extremely drought resistant, once established. However, when first starting you lavender plants, don't be afraid to give them a handful of compost in the planting hole and to keep them regularly watered during their first growing season.
Special Considerations It is dampness, more than cold, that is responsible for killing lavender plants. Dampness can come in the form of wet roots during the winter months or high humidity in the summer. If humidity is a problem, make sure you have plenty of space between your plants for air flow and always plant in a sunny location. Areas where the ground routinely freezes and thaws throughout the winter will benefit from a layer of mulch applied after the ground initially freezes. Also protect your lavender plants from harsh winter winds. Planting next to a stone or brick wall will provide additional heat and protection.
Pruning Although lavender plants get regularly pruned simply by harvesting the flowers, to keep them well shaped and to encourage new growth, a bit of spring pruning is in order. The taller varieties can be cut back by approximately one-third their height. Lower growing varieties can either be pruned back by a couple of inches or cut down to new growth. If you live in an area where lavender suffers some winter die-back, don't even think about pruning your plants until you see some new green growth at the base of the plant. If you disturb the plants too soon in the season, they give up trying.
Containers You can always grow your lavender in pots and move it to follow the sun or even bring it indoors for the winter. Keep in mind that although lavender has a large, spreading root system, it prefers growing in a tight spot. A pot that can accommodate the rootball with a couple of inches to spare would be a good choice. Too large a pot will only encourage excessive dampness.
Insure that the pot has plenty of drainage. To prevent water pooling in the pot, place about an inch of loose gravel at the bottom. Rot root is one of the few problems experienced by lavender plants. Use a loose, soilless mix for planting and remember that container grown lavender will require more water than garden grown plants. How much more depends on the environment and the type of pot. Water when the soil, not the plant, appears dry and water at the base of the plant to limit dampness on the foliage. Compact varieties make the best choices for containers. Some to try are L. angustifolia ‘Nana Alba’ and Spanish lavender (L. stoechas subsp. pedunculata)
How will you use this lovely lavender you'll be growing?

Besides being beautiful and aromatic, lavender flowers are also edible. They can be used raw in salads, added to soups and stews, used as a seasoning, baked into cookies and brewed into tea.
Unfortunately even if you do everything right and your lavender plants appear happy, the genus is generally not long lived and most lavender plants begin to decline after about 10 years. So keep starting new plants to carry you through your rough spots.
Recommended Varieties Lavandula angustifolia (English Lavender) Zones 5-8 'Munstead' An old-fashioned standard with blue-purple flowers. 18" tall
'Hidcote' is favored for its dark purple flowers. 24" tall
'Jean Davis' produces pale pink flower spikes. 18" tall
L. x intermedia Zones 5-8 'Provence' dries particularly well. 30" tall
'Grosso' is highly disease resistant and fragrant. 30" tall
L. dentata (Fringed Lavender) Zones 8-9 This is a bushy, spreading shrub that produces dense purple-blue flower spikes that are very pretty, but only mildly fragrant. 3' tall
L. stoechas (French Lavender) Zones 8-9 A beautiful Mediterranean native that is compact and bushy with fragrant, dark purple flowers topped by a feathery purple bract. Good cultivars include: ‘Dark Eyes’ and ‘Silver Frost’.
L. stoechas subsp. pedunculata (Spanish Lavender) Zones 9-10 Bears its flower stalks high above the foliage.

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Hops

The best way to start growing your own hops is by transplanting hop rhizomes (or cuttings) in the spring when they can be shipped and stored well. We recommend planting at least 2 rhizomes. Commercially, growers will plant up to 5 rhizomes per hill. Hops can be grown at almost anywhere or in any type of soil; however, they fair better in rich alluvial or sandy loom soil. They are very hardy plants but the hill they are planted in needs to be well cultivated to encourage proper drainage. They need plenty of water and food that will allow them to grow up to 1' per day, although not typically the first year. Plant the rhizomes were they will receive plenty of summer sun. They can tolerate temperatures in the 100's and below freezing. Hops can tolerate elevations up to 7000'; however, elevations below 3000' encourage more vigorous growth. Hops will grow to 20' in length during the first year. Therefore, plant the rhizomes with a plan for trellising your hops, much like a grape vine possibly. Lay your hills out at least 7' feet apart. Hops shoots can be trained to grow along guide wires, fences, heavy twine and a number of other elevating ideas; but elevate them so they will be easier to harvest. 1) Refrigerate your rhizomes until the soil is ready for planting. 2) Choose a southern exposure, if possible. An east or west exposure is acceptable but the hops will not grow as vigorously. 3) Hops prefer light textured, well drained soil with a pH of 6.0-8.0. If drainage is a problem, cultivate a mound for the planting. Definitely incorporate some organic matter such as manue or grass clippings into the soil, this is also a good time to add some slow release fertilizer such as cottonseed meal, bone meal, rock phosphate, oyster shell, etc. 4) Soak the rhizomes in warm water (approximately 80 degrees) for 1 hour prior to planting. Powdered root stimulates added to the water for soaking of the rhizomes and used during the planting process will bring the shouts out of the ground quicker. 5) Plant the rhizomes vertically with the buds pointing up or horizontally about 2 inches below the soil level. 6) Plant mixed varieties at least 5 feet apart. Identical varieties can be planted 3 feet apart. 7) First year hops have a minimal root system, therefore the soil should not be allowed to dry completely. Mulching the soil surface with some form of organic matter does wonders in conserving moisture as well as controlling weeds. 8) When the vines are about one foot long, select 2-3 strong vines and wrap them clockwise around a support system. This can either be a trellis, or simply a tall pole or strong twine coming down the side of your house. In future years, the earliest shoots should be pruned off in favor of training up the hardy second growth. After the main vines have been established, all subsequent vines should be removed from around the base of the hop. Always use strong twine because the vine can become quite heavy. Secure the taut twine to a stake at the have of the mound.

sourced from:

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www.coloradoorganichops.com

Garlic

Why Grow GarlicGarlic was originally a native plant of many thousands of years ago. Evidence of it has been found in caves inhabited more than 10,000 years ago.

Medicinal prescriptions were found chiseled into a clay Sumerian tablet that was more than 3,000 years old. Garlic is a key ingredient to a wide variety of recipes, and is quickly becoming regarded as a natural method to prevent heart disease and cancer - it is after all the second oldest medicine in the world.

Growing garlic is well-suited to both the first time gardener and the more experienced - given the correct soil and planting time, common garlic is relatively maintenance free, yet some of the more unusual varieties provide a challenge.

Where To Grow GarlicGrow your garlic in full sun - garlic needs to grow quickly in order to produce good sized bulbs. Pick a site that is not prone to water-logging, this will ensure the bulbs do not rot over winter.

Garlic can be planted in raised beds and they will grow very well. Click here to go to our page on raised beds.

Plant GarlicThe secret to growing garlic is to plant it in mid October - spring planting is possible in warmer areas, but even then, better sized bulbs will result from an autumn sowing. Dig the soil well to a spade's depth before planting, incorporating as much organic matter as possible to assist with drainage - garlic will rot in water-logged conditions. If you can purchase and dig in some sand (from your garden centre) at this stage, the drainage will be improved even further. A couple of handfuls of bonemeal should also be incorporated every square metre (yard).

Garlic bulbs for planting in Spring need not be bought from a nursery - simply choose the largest ones possible from your greengrocer or supermarket. If planting in mid October, choose a hardier variety such as 'White Pearl', these need to bought from your local garden centre. Each bulb will consist of up to 20 individual cloves, and it is these cloves which are to be individually planted. Gently remove the outer skin from the bulb (not the cloves) and separate into individual cloves - see the picture on the left. On the right is a garlic clove and on the left is the bulb. Select the largest eight or so of the cloves which will be on the outside of the bulb.
Plant each of the cloves in an upright position 2cm (1in) below the soil surface. Looking at the clove in the picture to the right, the bottom blunt end of the clove should be lowest in the ground with the pointed end just below the soil surface.

Space each clove about 10cm (4in) apart. If you are planting rows, space each row 45cm (18in) apart.

Care of Garlic
Garlic thrives on a well fed soil at the correct time, so in late March and again in mid May, feed the soil with general purpose fertiliser such as Growmore. If you can do this once or twice a month, so much the better. Apart from this, their only other requirement is to keep them free of weeds and in dry conditions water them. They will produce green foliage starting around April time.

Harvest GarlicGarlic is normally ready for harvesting when most of the foliage has turned yellowy-brown - this will be around mid August time. The problem with harvesting garlic is knowing when they are ripe - harvest too early and the bulbs will be small, harvest too late and the bulb will have split making harvest difficult and the cloves of low quality (they will have commence their growing cycle for next year).

Problems will occur mainly in wet summers - the leaves may only have started to turn yellow but if the garlic is left in wet ground at this stage, the bulbs will very quickly become diseased. For this reason a second method is needed to determine what stage they have reached. If the weather is wet in early August, pull up one bulb and see how many sheaths (very thin papery layers around the bulb) you can peel off the bulb - if there are only three, harvest the bulbs, if there are four or more, wait another two weeks or until most of the leaves have turned brown.
When harvesting garlic bulbs, gently ease them out of the ground with the assistance of using a trowel to loosen the surrounding soil - be careful not to bruise them with the trowel because they will then not keep for long.

The absolutely best garlic is fresh from the ground (known as wet garlic) - this garlic is sweeter, lees pungent and far more digestible than dried garlic. So make sure you use some cloves as soon as possible. The majority though should be be washed and dried and then placed in a warm dry place in the garden (bring indoors if rain threatens) to dry out - these bulbs should keep in good condition for 3 months or more.

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Shittake Mushrooms

Step1

Determine the growing season for shitakes in your area. The spores should be planted right around the time of the last spring frost. In the meantime, procure some shitake spores, which can come in the form of plugs, from a local, reputable dealer.

Step2

Obtain logs of hard word, about 3-8 inches in diameter, and no more thabn four feet long. Oak, poplar, sweet gum and some maples are a good choice. Rather than cutting down healthy trees, consider asking around to see if any local trees have already been cut down. No more than three weeks should pass between the time they were cut, and the time they`re planted. By that point, natural rot will have set in.

Step3

Drill small holes, about 5/16th-5/8ths of an inch wide, and an inch or two deep, along the logs, every six inches or so, stopping a few inches from either end, Rotate the log about two inches to one side, and repeat. Continue this process all the way around the cirumference of the log.

Step4

Fill those holes with the plugs of mushroom spores. Alternatively, mix the loose spores with sawdust and use the mixture to plug each hole. Then seal the hole with wax: brush over each hole with a paint brush that has been dipped in pre-melted wax.

Step5

Stack the logs in a shady area that also allows for good air flow on top of each other as you would Lincoln Logs, leaning vertically against each other or a stable surface.

Step6

Wait six months to a year for the spores to mature. At the same time, make sure to keep the logs moist, but not too moist. Water them in the drier months, but cover them with a tarp during rain.

Step7

Harvest in the spring and fall. Although production varies, each foot of log should produce about a pound of mushrooms.
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Onions

OnionsEasy to grow with a long storage life, onions are one of the best vegetables for the home gardener.

They have the advantage of being a sensible proposition in both the large and small garden, and can be grown in the same position for several years. With a little planning, they can be available for nearly all year round eating.

The introduction of heat treated onion sets (small onion bulbs pre-started into growth before sale) now means that growing onions is almost fool-proof.

Onions prefer a a sunny position with a rich but light soil, however they will do well in most soils as long as it is firm. For this reason it is best to prepare the soil well in advance of planting - December time is fine for maincrop onions, June is best for Japanese onions. Dig the soil to 45cm (18in) deep, working in any organic matter available - remove any stones in the soil that you come across during the digging. Just before planting, tread the soil down so that it is firm.
Onions are ideal plants for growing in small confined spaces, they particularly thrive in raised beds. For more information click here to go to our page on raised beds.
When To Plant OnionsOnions should be treated differently according to their type. Each is described below.
Maincrop onion seed and sets (small, part grown onion bulbs) should be sown outside starting March. If they are sown under cloche protection, they can be sown four weeks earlier.
Japanese onion seed should be sown outside in mid-August.
Spring (or salad) onion seed should be sown at three week intervals from early April to early June.

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Gogi Berries

How to Grow Goji BerriesOnce established, goji berries are incredibly easy to grow. They’ll grow in almost any type of soil, and can even thrive in poor soil, as they are used to the mountainous regions in the Himalayas. They are reasonably drought-tolerant, and will even grow in partial shade (though you’ll get more berries from them if you grow them in full sun).

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You can grow them from seed, or buy them as young plants. Buying young plants is far easier, as goji berry seeds are prone to rot in the compost and you’re less likely to get good results. The seedlings also need to be kept in warm conditions for 12 months, so for practical reasons, buying young plants is the more sensible option.
Once they’re a year old, however, they are perfectly winter hardy. Unchecked, they grow into a thick bush that reaches up to three metres tall, with vines that can grow to nearly four metres. If regularly pruned, they will form attractive small bushes that produce more berries as a result.
GrowingWhen your plants first arrive it is likely they will just look like bare twigs with some roots on. Don’t worry, this is normal. If planted straight away and watered well they will grow leaves within two-three weeks. Dig a hole around 50cm deep and wide and place the goji berry plant in it.
Firm the soil around the plant and water well. Leave about 1m between plants and mulch the area around the stems with leafmoluld or garden compost to keep the soil moist and well-nourished. You can even grow the bushes into a goji berry hedge; simply plant them 1m apart in a straight line.
FlowersAfter two years the bushes will start to fruit, and from four years you’ll start to get very heavy yields. In early summer the bushes will produce small, delicate, trumpet-shaped flowers that will be either white or purple. Both coloured flowers can feature on one plant, so they provide visual interest before the berry production begins.
The berries will begin to set in autumn. The ripe fruit are sweet and juicy and almost shiny in appearance. The flowers will continue to bloom right up until the first frosts, however, so your plants will be red, white and purple throughout late summer and autumn.
They are beautiful to have in your garden, delicious, nutritious, and cheap and easy to grow. If you want health-boosting berries on tap you should consider investing in a goji berry bush or two.

They’re the latest ‘must have’ miracle berry in celebrity circles. Said to banish cellulite, boost your immune system, contain more vitamin C than oranges and more iron than steak, this Himalayan berry is quite a catch. There’s one problem though, they’re very expensive to buy. Good news then, that these little red berries can be grown in the UK’s climate easily, and you can eat piles of fresh goji berries throughout the summer months from just a few, small bushes.
Growing your own goji berries is not only kinder to your wallet; it’s kinder to the environment too. They are now commercially grown in China, Mongolia and Tibet. The food miles involved in shipping them over to health shops in the UK are quite substantial, so if you have room for a bush or two in your garden or on your balcony, they’ll be a wealth of benefits involved.

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Echinacea

To most people, echinacea conjures up a herbal remedy for colds and 'flu - a vital boost to the immune system or a piece of harmless quackery. For gardeners, however, Echinacea purpurea is a versatile herbaceous perennial with handsome, long-lasting flowers. It is sturdy and self-supporting, hardy, easy to grow, undemanding, suitable both for the formal border and the meadow look.
The present high standing of this North American prairie plant is partly due to its being an important element in "new naturalism" gardens. Amenable to being disposed in drifts and rivers, it is a striking sight en masse with its large daisy flowers, warm pink, purple-pink or ivory-white according to cultivar. These appear over a long period from early July to September and are followed by attractive, long-lasting seedheads.

Growing tips
To grow well echinaceas definitely like a meaty soil that drains sufficiently sharply so that it never becomes waterlogged in winter. They are also best in full sun, although they will tolerate some shade. It is important to mix a good quantity of compost with the soil from the hole before planting and to keep the plant well watered until established. After that, an annual spring mulch is all they need.
Dead-heading will encourage the formation of more flower buds; alternatively, the seedheads can be left for winter decoration. You will have to accept that echinaceas sometimes die for no very obvious reason, although winter wet is a possibility.
The coarse foliage seems to shrug off pest and disease attack.
Propagation
Sow seed in early spring (Chiltern Seeds has a good selection on offer). The plants will often flower in their first season. It is also possible to divide plants or to take root cuttings in spring.

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Lemon

Bright and fragrant, lemon trees are worth the effort it takes to grow them, Sooner or later, the avid fruit gardener begins to hanker after growing a lemon tree. A delicious scent hangs in the air whenever the plant is in flower, and the fruit brighten up a conservatory or glasshouse in winter. But lemons are a challenge. Like all citrus fruit they need consistent, watchful care to be successful - and are all the more rewarding for it.
Lemons, and citrus generally, are not frost-hardy. They are self-fertile, however, which means you get fruit even if you only have one plant. "Trees" range in size at maturity from 60cm (2ft) tall to 2.5m (8ft) or more. They have mid-green, long-oval, evergreen leaves and the wine-coloured buds open into white, five-petalled, fragrant, star-like flowers. The fruit take about nine months to swell and ripen, so there are often flowers and lemons on the plant at the same time, which is very appealing. They flower most prolifically in spring; but as long as the night temperature stays above 11C (52F), so that the plant does not become dormant, many will bloom in autumn and winter, too.
Varieties
It's best to buy a grafted plant of a named cultivar from a reputable source: plants from pips will take some years to flower and may never bear good fruit. Stephen Read of Reads Nursery, which holds the National Collection of Citrus, recommends the compact and easy 'La Valette', the fussier but equally prolific 'Meyers Lemon' if space is limited, and the much bigger 'Quatre Saisons' (which you may find listed in catalogues as 'Garey's Eureka' ) for heavier crops of lemons, which are as acid as commercial varieties. He also puts in a good word for 'Imperial', which crops well once a year on a vigorous bush, and the remarkable 'Ponderosa', which has lemons the size of grapefruits.
Cultivation
Read finds that lemons grow best in John Innes No 2 compost, with 25 per cent extra by volume horticultural grit or perlite to promote sharp drainage, which is vital. They can be grown in either terracotta or plastic pots. Whichford Pottery sells handsome lemon pots in a variety of sizes ( 01608 684416 ; www.whichfordpottery.com).
Avoid overpotting established trees; they only need moving every two to three years into a pot one size up. Otherwise, simply take off the top 2.5cm (1in) of soil each spring and add fresh compost. They thrive best in a pH of 6.2 to 6.5, so should preferably be watered with rainwater from a clean butt, kept at the same temperature as the soil. If you have to use tap water, Read suggests adding citric acid to it, at a rate of 2g per 10 litres. These plants should be well soaked when watered and then left alone until almost dry again. Never let them dry out completely, however, or they will drop leaves and flowers. Mist the foliage regularly with water to raise the humidity (they like about 50 per cent), or put the pot on a tray of wet pebbles.
Lemons are greedy feeders so should ideally be given a high-nitrogen feed frequently from March, when the clocks go forward, until October, when they go back, followed by a more balanced feed with trace elements in autumn and winter. Chempak's ( 01992 890770 ; www.chempak.co.uk) specialised winter and summer citrus fertilisers are suitable; follow the recommended application rates and timings. In winter, if you are watering very little, a seaweed foliar feed is a suitable alternative.
Lemons are happiest if put outdoors in late May, since it is hard to achieve sufficient ventilation under glass in summer. Put the pot in part-shade initially, to allow the plant to acclimatise. It is important that the roots are not baked by the sun. Bring them in again before the frosts. Lemons, like all citrus, resent fluctuations of temperature, humidity and light levels, so keep a daily eye on them. Don't despair, however, if flowers or small fruits fall off; a substantial drop is natural and inevitable. Read thins the crop, if necessary, by picking some fruits when they are still conker-sized.
Pruning
In late winter, before the surge of growth, cut back some shoots to help shape the plant, and pinch out the tips of very vigorous growths.
Pests and diseases
Scale and mealy bug love citrus, so be watchful and use a sponge or a toothbrush dipped in soapy water to remove them. Or pick them off with your thumbnail. Do the same with aphids in spring, or pinch out the ends of the young shoots. Mist-spray regularly to discourage red spider mite.

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Fig

Fig
trees are members of the genus group of trees known as Ficus. There are two types of fig trees: the caprifig and the edible fig. Caprifig trees are all male and their fruit is inedible. There are three varieties of edible fig trees.
The Smyrna variety of fig tree requires pollination to occur before it can produce fruit. If not pollinated the fruit will drop to the ground before maturing.
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The San Pedro variety of fig tree needs pollination for its main crop when planted in some locations.
The most popular type of edible fig tree planted is the common fig variety which includes, Brown Turkey figs, Celeste figs, Black Mission figs and Brunswick figs. Common figs do not need pollination to set crops and are therefore the easiest for homeowners to grow and care for.
Fig tree types are further divided by the color of the fruit. There are green/yellow varieties and dark varieties.
Fig trees are easy to grow in warm climates. They need to be planted in an area where they will receive full sun, at least eight hours a day. They should be spaced at least ten feet apart from other trees. The average fig tree will grow to be ten feet tall and ten feet wide.
Fig trees have a cold hardiness temperature of ten to twenty degrees Fahrenheit. If planted in the north it is recommended that they be kept in containers that can be brought indoors during the winter. Be extra careful in watering a container kept plant as they tend to dry out more rapidly. Depending on how far north you are, covering them with burlap may suffice.
When planting a young fig tree, be sure to place it in the hole with the top of the root ball at ground level. Use rich soil with at least 1/3 humus mixed in. After replacing the soil, mound up additional soil to form a water basin. Water the tree thoroughly and then cover the area with mulch.
Newly planted fig trees must be kept well watered until they have become completely established. After that they should only need to be watered in times of drought. Avoid over watering as a soggy plant will cause the fruit to split. Fertilize the tree every spring just before the new growth begins.
It is not recommended to start a fig tree from seed. Purchasing them at your local gardening center or propagating them is the better choice.
Fig trees are easy to propagate because they root easily. The easiest way to do this is to take leafless cuttings that are about six inches long and the width of a pencil in early spring. Put your cuttings into good quality potting soil in a pot that is lined with newspaper. Stand the pot in a warm, bright area and cover the cuttings with empty two liter containers that have had their bottoms cut off. Do not water the pot again until it is extremely dry. In time you will see leaves growing and the cuttings will form roots.
Wait until the new fig tree has a complete root system before hardening off. To harden off, you need to bring it outside for several hours a day making sure to bring it back inside at night. Do this for at least two weeks until it is acclimated to the new climate. After the young tree is hardened off you can transplant it outside.

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Senna

Senna hebecarpa, commonly known as wild senna, is a North American native plant growing on damp soils in Ontario, the east coast of the United States, south to Georgia and as far west as Wisconsin. Despite its vigour and mass production of seeds (of which only 10-30% are viable) in cultivated situations, this plant is considered endangered. Wild senna grows along roadways, disturbed areas, fields and the edge of streams. However, changes in hydrology, development of land and succession of secondary species are thought to be reducing its numbers.

Medicinal uses of Senna hebecarpa are extensive, ranging from curing cramps to administering for fainting spells.

The extensive collecting of this plant for medicinal purposes (PDF) is also thought to contribute to the decline of this species in the wild.

How to grow Wild Senna - Cassia
If planning to grow Cassia outdoors from the off it is best to sow out the seed in either Summer or autumn at a depth of 3mm. Wild Senna like species should be grown in soil that has good drainage, in either a sunny or partly shaded part of the garden. When growing Cassia indoors first then you will first need to chip the seeds, then soak in warm water for three hours before sowing. They should be planted about 7 weeks before you transplant the seedlings outdoors, in the autumn or after the last frost of the spring. When putting the seedlings out they should be spaced at about 60 to 90cm apart.
Caring for Cassia
Once established Cassia requires regular fertilisation and watering; ideally they should be thinned in the autumn.

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Oregano

Oregano originates in the Mediterranean. It is closely related to the herb marjoram; in fact oregano is actually wild marjoram (oregano has a more intense flavour). Oregano is a half hardy annual; this means it will only last for one season and it is unlikely that it will survive through the winter months.
Oregano prefers a well-drained site in full sun. Oregano does not require many nutrients and will thrive on a sandy or chalky soil. It grows well in containers and is extremely useful in the kitchen.
How to Grow OreganoOregano grows best in full sun in a well-drained soil of average to low fertility. Prepare the bed by digging it over thoroughly and incorporating organic matter such as leafmould, well-rotted animal manure or homemade compost. This will help break up any heavy soils and improve drainage. Sow seeds from late April, 2cm deep and approximately 15cm apart in a well-prepared seedbed. After about 2-3 weeks, thin seedlings to 30cm apart to give the plants room to grow to their full size.


Caring for Oregano

Oregano is tolerant of most conditions, it requires very little care. In the first few months, ensure the plants do not dry out, but after they have become established they should cope well with drought. Try to avoid letting the plants become waterlogged, however. Oregano is a Mediterranean plant and is not used to wet conditions. If you can’t grow oregano in a well-drained soil then grow it in a container with plenty of grit to aid drainage.
Harvesting OreganoThe leaves of oregano should be harvested in July, just before the flowers appear. If the leaves are harvested after the flowers appear they can taste bitter. However, removing the flower heads before they open can keep the leaves tasting great, and can ensure you can harvest them right up until November. Oregano is most commonly used as a dried herb (if you want to use fresh leaves, use pot marjoram as an alternative). Pick the leaves on a dry day and store them in a dark, dry warm place until they are crumbly in texture. Then store the dried leaves in an airtight container where they will retain their flavour for up to 6 months.
Growing Oregano in a ContainerOregano is well suited to being grown in pots. Sow seeds indoors in March in a small pot then transplant into a 30cm diameter pot in May. Water the pot when the soil dries out (terracotta pots tend to dry out much quicker than plastic alternatives). As with all herbs, feeding oregano can impair the flavour of its leaves. Only feed once or twice during the season and use an organic feed such as seaweed.
Oregano is a fantastic herb to grow in the garden. It is best used dried and is a great accompaniment to pizza and pasta dishes. Oregano is easy to grow and does well in containers. It has a more intense flavour than marjoram and so only a few leaves are needed to perk up a meal.

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Sage

Sage is a popular herb used to make stuffing and to flavour meat dishes. It is native to the Mediterranean but is a hardy perennial and is easy to grow. Sage enjoys a sunny position in a well-drained, fertile soil. Sage is an attractive plant to have growing in the garden; its velvety leaves and small, purple flowers look spectacular in the herb garden and herbaceous border alike.
Varieties of SageThere are plenty of sage varieties to try; including purple and variegated-leaved ones, with a range of differently-coloured flowers:
Varigated leaf sage – this sage has variegated leaves and lilac blue flowers and a good flavour.
Purple sage – this sage has a good flavour and beautiful purple leaves
Common sage – this is the original sage, used to make stuffing and flavour meat dishes.
How to Grow SageSage will tolerate most conditions as long as it has plenty of sun. It does best in a well-prepared bed with plenty of organic matter (such as well-rotted animal manure or homemade compost) incorporated into it.

Propagating SageSage takes a long time to grow from seed, so it is best bought as a young plant and transplanted straight into the garden. Alternatively, you can propagate sage from another plant by taking cuttings.
Care of SageSage requires a little maintenance over the year. It enjoys dry conditions so avoid watering it in dry spells. It shouldn’t be necessary for you to feed your sage plant during the growing season if you incorporated plenty of organic matter when planting. Each autumn, a mulch of fresh organic matter will boost the nutrient content and keep the roots protected from harsh frosts.
After the flowers die down sage should be pruned to half its size, using secateurs. Sage looses some of its flavour after about 3 years. After this time it is a good idea to take cuttings from the original plant to grow into new, more flavoursome plants.
Harvesting SageSage eaves are easy to harvest. Simply cut off the leaves with scissors or pinch them off with your fingers. Sage is best used fresh, although the leaves can be placed in a plastic bag and frozen to use throughout the winter months. The leaves can also be dried, simply harvest them on a dry day and store in a warm, dry room until they are crumbly to touch. Then store the crumbled leaves in an airtight container and store out of direct sunlight.
Growing Sage

Sage does well in a container, Simply grow in normal potting compost and keep the pot fairly dry, in a warm, sunny position. Prune once a year and feed with a liquid feed every fortnight during the growing season.
Sage is a great herb to grow in the garden. It is an attractive plant, with velvety leaves ranging from grey/green to purple (depending on the variety). It is extremely useful in the kitchen and can be chopped up and made into stuffing, used to make a refreshing tea, or used to flavour a wide range of dishes.

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Thyme

Thyme is a great herb to have growing in the garden. Originally from southern Europe it has attractive foliage and flowers and it is easy to care for. Thyme is a hardy perennial herb, which means it survives throughout he winter months and will last for several years. Thyme grows to a height of up to 30cm. It is highly aromatic and emits a wonderful scent when trodden on. Some low-growing varieties of thyme are used as an alternative to a lawn.
Varieties of Thyme

There are many varieties of thyme to choose from:
Golden-scented thyme – slight lemon scent, with small, purple flowers
Garden thyme – the most common thyme used for flavouring
Ground cover thyme – this thyme is good for cooking and ground cover, including an alternative to a lawn.
How to Grow Thyme

Thyme thrives in a well-drained light soil, of average fertility. It enjoys a sunny, sheltered position.
Propagating Thyme

Thyme can be propagated from seed, root division and cuttings (although taking cuttings isn’t recommended). Growing from seed can take up to a year to develop into a harvestable plant; growing from division can produce a good sized plant in just a few months.

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To grow thyme from seed, sow into small pots (5cm diameter) in potting compost in March. Cover with a very thin layer of potting compost and keep the pots warm, preferably indoors or in a greenhouse. Seedlings should emerge within a week. Thin to 2-3 seedlings and keep the compost moist. When the first true leaves have grown (when the plants are 10cm tall), harden the plants off by moving the pots outside in the day then taking them in at night. Do this for up to a week, before leaving the pots out at night. This gradually acclimatises the plants so they are not shocked when planted outside. Transplant the young plants into their final positions, roughly 30cm apart in a well-drained soil in full sunlight. Harvest sparingly in the first year. To divide thyme, choose a healthy plant at least 3 years old. Simply dig it up in early spring and remove as much soil as possible from the roots. Then gently tear the plant into 3 or 4 pieces, each with sufficient roots and foliage to grow independently from the main plant. Place each new plant back in the ground and water thoroughly. The new plants should be robust enough to harvest the leaves from late summer.
Caring for Thyme

Once established, thyme requires very little attention. Water only in very dry conditions and avoid feeding (too many nutrients can cause thyme to grow leggy and lose its flavour). A mulch of organic matter such as leafmould, well-rotted animal manure or homemade compost placed around the roots in autumn will protect thyme from severe frosts and deliver a moderate amount of nutrients throughout the year.
After 3 years, thyme will become woody and produce fewer leaves. At this stage it should be dug up and divided to make new plants.
Harvesting Thyme

Thyme may be harvested throughout the year. However, its leaves taste best in June and July. Simply remove the sprigs using scissors or secateurs.
Growing Thyme in a Container

Thyme will thrive if grown in a container, and requires no extra attention. During the summer, and organic liquid feed such as seaweed will be necessary every fortnight.
Thyme is a great plant to have growing in the garden. It can be used as ground cover in the herb garden, herbaceous borders, or even as an alternative to a lawn. It is a great herb to cook with, adding flavour to a variety of dishes, especially fish. What’s more, thyme is easy to grow.

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Mint

Mint is a fantastic herb to grow in the garden. It is easy to grow and emits a wonderful scent when you brush past it. It can be used in a variety of dishes including roast lamb and salads and goes well with freshly podded peas.
Mint is a hardy perennial and a voracious grower. It will do well in both sunny and shady parts of the garden. It will also thrive in pots; in fact if you have a small garden it is recommended that you grow mint in a pot to prevent it from spreading and taking over the other herbs.
Varieties of Mint:There are three main varieties of mint that people grow in their gardens:
Pennyroyal mint – the most common type of mint.
Peppermint – with a distinct cool peppermint flavour.
Spearmint – traditionally used in mint sauces.
How to Grow MintMint can be grown easily from seed, or young plants sold at garden centres. Mint is tolerant of almost all conditions, but it prefers a well-drained, fertile soil. However, mint enjoys a fair amount of moisture, so it will do better in a moderately shady position, where the soil won’t dry out as quickly as it would in a very sunny area.
Mint can also be propagated from its roots, or rhizomes. Simply take a piece of root and pot it up in a small container, keeping it well watered. Leaves should begin to sprout within a few weeks and the small plant can then be transplanted into the garden the following spring. As mint is such a strong grower it is advisable to grow it in a container to prevent its roots from spreading and potentially killing other plants. You can sink the container into the soil so it appears that the plant is part of the herb bed, however its roots will be contained so the plant will never be able to grow beyond the confines of the pot.

Caring for MintMint requires little attention and will thrive in almost all conditions. However a mulch of bark or leaves will keep the plant happy; it will provide nutrients and lock in much-needed moisture for the roots. After the plant has started to flower the leaves will stop growing. It’s important therefore, to remove any flowers that appear to keep the plant producing leaves right up until autumn.

Pest and Diseases

Mint can be affected by rust. This can be a deadly disease for mint plants. If you notice orange blobs on the underside of your mint leaves remove the leaves immediately. However, if many leaves are affected it’s best to chop the plant down to ground level and burn it. Fresh leaves should grow without infection the following spring. Alternatively, remove the entire plant and start again (if you grew your pot in a container then remove the soil and clean the pot with a disinfectant before replanting).
Harvesting MintSimply cut the leaves when needed, using a pair of scissors. Cut from the top of the plant (this will encourage new stems to shoot out from the sides). Never remove all of the leaves from the plant; this will hamper its growth.

Growing Mint in Containers

Mint is particularly suited to container growing, and will grow happily in potting compost. Water the plant f the pot dries out and feed with an organic liquid plant food once a month during the growing season.
Mint is a delightful herb to grow in the garden and has many uses in the kitchen. It is easy to grow and returns every year to provide you with fresh leaves to add to new potatoes, fresh peas, and turn into a delicious mint sauce.

sourced from:

http://www.herbexpert.co.uk/GrowingMint.html

Peyote

Sowing of Peyote and other cacti
Seeds of Peyote and other cacti pullulate on warm humid conditions. Hence the danger of putrescence is high. Therefore sabulous soil or pure sand are beneficial with sowing of cacti.
For germination cacti need relatively much humidity and light, a kind of „tropical climate“. They react very sensitiv to direct sunlight and waterlogging.
A very approved method is sowing Peyote in a preserving jar. A jar will be filled with a layer of perlite, seramis, vermiculit or another drainig material. On top of this comes a layer of sandon which the seeds will be strewed covered with a very gauzy layer of translucent glass sand / arenaceous quartz.Moisten it enough and cover the jar hermetically with a polythene foil and leave it at a bright place protected from direct solar irridation. Neither air nor humidity can escape and both should last for the first weeks or even months.In case mould appears the jar needs to be ventilated! As soon as the peyote cacti are about 1 cm high the foil can be carefully taken away – bit by bit during several days so the plants can get used to sunlight

souced from

http://www.heritage-garden-seeds.co.uk/peyote-growing

http://www.gardeningtipsnideas.com/

http://dic.academic.ru/dic.nsf/ruwiki/309128

Henbane

Henbane will grow on most soils, in sandy spots near the sea, on chalky slopes, and in cultivation flourishing in a good loam.
It is, however, very capricious in its growth, the seeds being prone to lie dormant for a season or more, refusing to germinate at all in some places, and the crop varying without any apparent reason, sometimes dying in patches. In some maritime localities it can be grown without any trouble. It requires a light, moderately rich and well-drained soil for successful growth and an open, sunny situation, but does not want much attention beyond keeping the ground free from weeds.
The seed should be sown in the open early in May or as soon as the ground is warm, as thinly as possible, in rows 2 to 2 1/2 feet apart, the seedlings thinned out to 2 feet apart in the rows, as they do not stand transplanting well. Only the larger seedlings should be reserved, especially those of a bluish tint. The soil where the crop is to be, must have been well manured, and must be kept moist until the seeds have germinated, and also during May and June of the first year. It is also recommended to sow seeds of biennial Henbane at their natural ripening time, August, in porous soil.
The ground must never be water-logged, especially in the first winter; it runs to stalk in a wet season. Drought and late frosts stunt the growth and cause it to blossom too early, and if the climatic conditions are unsuitable, especially in a dry spring and summer, the biennial Henbane will flower in its first year, while the growth is quite low, but wellmanured soil may prevent this.
Care must be taken in selecting the seed: commercial Henbane seed is often kiln-dried and useless for sowing. In order to more readily ensure germination, it is advisable to soak the seeds in water for twenty-four hours before planting: the unfertile seeds will then float on the top of the water and may thus be distinguished. Ripe seed should be grey, and yellowish or brown seeds should be rejected, as they are immature. Let the seeds dry and then sift out the smallest, keeping only the larger seeds.
Henbane seed being very small and light should be well mixed with fine dry soil as it is sown.
As seedlings often die off, a reserve should be kept in a box or bed to fill gaps, even though they do not always transplant success fully.
If it is desired to raise a crop of the annualvariety the plants, being smaller and not branching so freely, may be grown at a distance of 18 inches apart each way, but the annual is very little cultivated in this country.
If any annuals come up among the biennials sown, the flowers should be cut off until the leaves get larger and the stem branches.
There is usually some difficulty in growing Henbane owing to its destruction by insects: sometimes the whole of the foliage is destroyed by the larvae of a leaf-mining fly, Pegomyia Hyoscyami, and the crop is rendered worthless in a week. And when the large autumnal leaves of the first-year plants of the biennial variety decay, the large terminal bud is often destroyed by one of the various species of macro-lepidopterous caterpillars which hide themselves in the ground. The crown or bud should be covered as soon as the leaves have rotted away with soil mixed with soot or naphthaline, to prevent the depredations of these and other insects.
Floods may also rot the plants in winter, if grown on level ground. Potato pests are fond of the prickly leaves and will leave a potato patch to feed on the Henbane plant.
If mildew develops on the foliage in summer, dust the plants with powdered sulphur or spray with 1/2 oz. of liver of sulphur in 2 gallons of water.
When it is desired to preserve seed for propagation, it is well to cut off the top flowering shoots at an early stage of flowering (these may be dried and sold as flowering tops), and allow only about six seed-capsules to ripen. This will ensure strong seed to the capsules left, and this seed will probably produce biennial Henbane, weaker seeds being apt to produce the less robust and less valuable annual Henbane.
Seeds sown as soon as ripe in August may germinate in autumn, and thus constitute a biennial by growing on all through the winter and flowering the next summer.
Although the cultivation of Henbane in sandy ground near the sea, especially on the rich soil of estuaries, would probably pay well, it is hardly a profitable plant to grow in small gardens, more especially as the yield of dried leaf is very small. It is estimated that about 15 cwt. of dry herb are obtained from an acre of ground.

sourced from:

http://www.botanical.com/botanical/mgmh/h/henban23.html

www.dailymail.co.uk

Avocado

While avocados are a tropical fruit more suited to the humid regions of Mexico and Central America, it doesn’t mean they can not be grown successfully in the UK. The trees can grow to up to 20m and can take up to 10 years to fruit.
If you want to grow an avocado tree, it’s best to raise it as an indoor plant. The trees don’t tolerate freezing temperatures. They can grow outside in the far south of England, and have even grown fruit in some years, but you’ll get better results if they’re grown in large pots indoors.
Germinating the SeedAvocado stones take a long time to germinate. If you already have a garden and a compost heap, you may have noticed avocado stones germinating inside the heap. This is because the heap provides the ideal hot and moist conditions for germination. There are alternative methods, however, if you don’t fancy rooting around your compost heap:
pierce the seed with toothpicks and suspend it, pointed end up, over a glass of water. Roots should start to develop within two to six weeks. Then pot up the plant, leaving the tip just poking out of the soil. However, not all avocado seeds will germinate, so if your seed hasn't sprouted after six weeks, try again with a fresh seed
leave the seed in direct sunlight until it starts to split. Then pot it up
place the seed in a pot, and cover it completely. Water well, allow to drain and leave in a warm, dark place, such as an airing cupboard. Check on the pot every week to ensure it is moist, and water if necessary. As soon as the shoot starts to show, move the pot to a sunny spot, such as a windowsill Always use a pot with approximately a 12cm diameter. Use a rich, peat-free potting compost and ensure the pot has good drainage. After your plant is roughly 30cm tall, cut it down to around 15cm. This makes the plant grow bushy, rather than tall. Once your plant has filled its pot with roots, transplant it to its permanent home – the largest pot you have room for. Fill with rich, peat-free compost, which you should top up with fresh compost each year.

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Flowering and PollinationAvocado trees can take up to ten years to bear fruit and indoor-grown plants don’t always live that long. However, if you provide it with a moist, fertile soil and plenty of sunlight, and keep it in humid conditions such as a greenhouse or conservatory, your tree will have a fighting chance of fruiting.
An old gardeners’ trick in the southern hemisphere to encourage the plant to flower is to treat the tree roughly. When it is of a decent size, (no smaller than 1.5m), attack the trunk of the tree with a knife, or sharp implement. Make sure you don’t damage the tree so it can’t grow properly, and only cut the surface of the bark – never make big cuts in it. The stress brought on by this attack is said to shock the plant into flower, where it will then hopefully bear fruit.
If the plant is indoors and it flowers you will need to pollinate them in order for it to fruit. Keep a window or door in the greenhouse or conservatory open to let bees in to pollinate it, or move the plant outside – if you can – on sunny warm days.
Regardless of region, avocados are not easy fruits to grow. However, the trees make an interesting addition to the conservatory or greenhouse and you’ll never tire of trying to make it flower. If you are lucky enough to get it to bear fruit you’ll be rewarded with delicious, fresh avocados and all your hard effort will be worth it.

sourced from: http://www.fruitexpert.co.uk/GrowingAvocados.html

Ginger

get some plump, fresh ginger rhizomes from the shop - Asian corner shops subject their stock to a lower level of technology than other outlets so roots from these are best. Plant shallowly in multipurpose compost. Keep in warm, sunny place - conservatory ideal, sunny windowsill at a pinch. Wait for it to grow - enjoy! Has to be indoors in winter, but can put up with sunny sheltered patio in summer.

sourced

http://mygarden.rhs.org.uk/forums/t/12045.aspx

www.greenhousesensation.co.uk

Hawian Baby Wood Rose

Hawaiian Baby Woodrose
Natural Growing Conditions
Hawaiian Baby Woodrose (Argyreia nervosa), not to be confused with the Hawaiian Woodrose (Merremia tuberosa), is a perennial climbing vine, also known as Elephant Creeper and Woolly Morning Glory. Native to the Indian subcontinent and introduced to numerous areas worldwide, including Hawaii, Africa and the Caribbean, it can be invasive, although is often prized for its aesthetic value.
Germination
HBWR has a very tough seed coat and nicking aids in germination a lot. This is how I nick them. Take very sharp scissors and make a shallow snip away from the germ eye, just piercing the seed coat. Alterinateivly you can take a file a file away a bit, again away from the germ eye. Some people recomend pouring boiling water over the freshly nicked seeds, and to let them sit over night, I have found this is not nessecery. Plant in free draining soil (HBWR is somewhat susceptible to rot) In any event if the seeds are good germination should occur in less than a week.
Lighting
HBWR does not like a lot of light when it is young. I put my seedlings in direct light every day until they show some signs of wilting, then take them out. This way the seedlings are getting the maximum amount of sunlight they can handle and soon adapt to it and pump out as much growth as possible. Alternitively you can start them off outside in pots in full sun. This way they will adapt to lots of light very quickly, again take them out of the sun when they show signs of wilting.
Water
Keep soil moist but not wet. As I mentioned they seem to be somewhat vulnerable to rot when they are young. Still make sure to water regularly. If they remain dry to long they will start to wilt and appear to have gotten too much sun. I have lost many plants thinking they where simply getting too much light when all it was was low moisture.
Once well established
HBWR, unlike its close relative Morning Glory, is a very slow grower, and can take up to two years to even reach a foot tall. I feed mine regularly with Peters 20,20,20, which it seems to respond well to. I'm sure any fertilizer will do. Also I recomend worm castings when younger (big fisherman and always have a bunch laying around:)). Whatever you use just make sure to start off with half the recomended strength.
Flowering and seeds
Let me start off by saying.... Good luck with that if you dont live in a tropical climate. I got a lot of flowers one year which eventually led to a couple seed pods. I hear the most important factor in getting them to flower (which I believe is true about any plant) is enough space for the roots. HBWR gets potbound very easily after its first year or so of growth... you think shes barely growing but it seems to focus its energy on growing roots. As I said I keep mine in a 20 gallon pot and its still potbound until I move it outside for the season. I cant think of any practacal container that could be used to give its massive root system space, a 55 gallon oil drum perhaps.

sourced

http://www.plot55.com/growing/a.nervosa.html

www.visionaryplants.com