Tea

The Camellia sinensis plant is a small shrub about 1-2 meters in height, though it will grow taller if you don't prune it. In the fall, your tea shrub will flower with small white blossoms that have a delightful scent. These plants are often grown as ornamentals. For planting, Camellia sinensis likes well-drained and sandy soil that is on the acidic side. If you are going to grow your tea in a container, add some sphagnum moss to the potting mix. You'll need some patience, too. Your plant should be around 3 years old before you start harvesting leaves. You might be able to get seeds at your local nursary, or try online at Seedrack.com. Growing tea is only half the battle. Once your tea plant is growing well, you'll need to harvest and process your tea leaves. From your plant, you can make black, green or oolong tea. Green Tea
Pluck the very youngest leaves and leaf buds.
Blot the leaves dry, and let dry in the shade for a few hours.
Steam the leaves (like you would vegetables) on your stove for about a minute.
For a different flavour, try roasting them in a skillet for 2 minutes instead of steaming.
Spread the leaves on a baking sheet and dry in the oven at 250F for 20 minutes.
Store the dried tea leaves in an air-tight containerOolong Tea
Pluck the very youngest leaves and leaf buds.
Spread them out on a towel under the sun and let them wilt for about 45 minutes.
Bring your leaves inside and let them sit at room temperature for a few hours.
Make sure to stir the leaves up every hour.
The edges of the leaves will start to turn red as they begin to dry.
Spread the leaves on a baking sheet and dry in the oven at 250F for 20 minutes.
Store the dried tea leaves in an air-tight container.Black Tea
Pluck the very youngest leaves and leaf buds.
Roll the leaves between your hands, and crush them until the leaves start to darken and turn red.
Spread them out on a tray, and leave them in a cool location for 2-3 days.
Dry them in the oven at 250F for about 20 minutes.
Store in an air-tight container.Once you get the hang of it, try experimenting with different drying times to get different tastes. Mix your teas with jasmine or hibiscus flowers for a lovely summer tea right from your garden.

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Comfrey

Medicinal use of comfrey
Comfrey has long been known in Britain as a medicinal herb, its common name was ‘knitbone’. Supposed to assist in healing broken bones and skin complaints, many still use products from it for those purposes.
In the nineteenth century a Quaker smallholder, Henry Doubleday, became intrigued by the possibilities of Russian Comfrey as a useful crop. Leap forward to 1954 and Lawrence D Hills took up the cause. Almost as a side effect he started what has become Europe’s largest organic gardening association, the HDRA.
Comfrey contains high levels of the basic NPK nutrients, drawn up from the deep by its extensive root system. As such it can be useful as animal feed and as plant feed. The plant re-grows from small root cuttings and, as a weed, is very difficult to eradicate.
On the HDRA trial ground at Bocking in Essex, L D Hills developed the most valuable variety, Bocking 14. High in nutrients and sterile (you don’t want comfrey popping up all over the place) Bocking 14 is exclusively propagated from root cuttings.

Allotment Uses of Comfrey
If you are able to keep chickens on your allotment you can feed wilted comfrey to them.
As a compost activator - comfrey is so rich that it not only enriches your heaps but encourages them to heat up.
The first cut of the year, in spring, should go in to the furrow before the potatoes. The liquid feed will also be good for potatoes as will chopped wilted leaves as a mulch - before the foliage gets too dense to effectively spread it.
As a mulch and as a liquid feed for tomatoes, runner and dwarf beans.
Mix with leafmould to make a base for potting compost.
Comfrey Roots
Cultivation of Comfrey
Location and Preparation of your Comfrey Bed
Comfrey is a pretty tough plant that will grow from small pieces of root so do choose your location with care. It is easier to kill most weeds than comfrey. If you do need to move a comfrey bed the old bed will need to be killed off. Your best bet will be to use a weedkiller like ammonium sulphamate .
Comfrey will thrive in full sun or in partial to near full shade - there is usually a disused corner that will make a great site for your comfrey bed. It doesn't like thin, chalky soils and the roots go down a fair way so dig deeply and break up the subsoil to get it off to a good start. Light sandy soils will benefit from organic matter. Being a fleshy plant it will need a lot of water and a soggy patch will be a plus.
Turn the soil over and remove any perennial weed roots. Comfrey grows very densely and will be difficult to weed. It does tend to shade out most weeds once established. If you have any manure - even poultry manure - fork this into the top 6 inches of the soil. Comfrey is great for soaking up nutrients and, unlike most plants, will not burn with raw manure.
Obtaining Comfrey , Planting and the growing for the first year.
You can obtain plants from The Organic Gardening Catalogue for most of the year but, if you can, plant in March, April, May or September for best results. I start the plants off in pots - just to get them off to a good start - and then plant out. You can plant directly but I like to ensure success, especially as they can cost over a pound each!
Block plant around 2 to 3 feet apart and stand back. You will be surprised how quickly they grow. When the flowers appear take a cut. I use a pair of shears and cut about 6 inches from the ground. Comfrey has little hairs on the leaves, which can irritate. Not quite a cactus but near, so wear gloves.
Come winter the plants go dormant and a good layer of manure can be applied.
Harvesting and Propagating Comfrey
In the second year your comfrey patch starts to really pay off. In the spring it will leap back from its winter sleep. Your first cut will get the spuds off to a good start. After that you should get at least a further 3 cuts - even 4.
To get further plants, push your spade through the middle of a plant and lever up a portion. Take root cuttings (about 2 inches long) and away you go again. Be careful as the bits left over will happily root wherever they fall.
Making Comfrey Liquid Compost or Comfrey Tea
Comfrey can be made into a wonderful liquid feed – it is quite simple. Take a barrel or tub, add comfrey leaves, fill with water and leave for 3 to 5 weeks. Warning! It will smell like an open sewer when finished. The liquid can be used as a tomato feed. I tried this with a tub with a tap but it was always getting blocked, but if you put the leaves into an old potato sack it solves this problem.

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Elder

PlantingElderberries grow best in moist, fertile, well-drained soil with a pH between 5.5 and 6.5, but will tolerate a wide range of soil texture, fertility, and acidity. It’s a myth that they prefer swampy areas. In fact, they do not tolerate poor drainage. Plant elderberries in spring, as soon as possible after they arrive from the nursery to prevent plants from drying out. Space plants 6 to 10 feet apart. Elderberries are shallow rooted, so keep them well-watered during the first season. Plants are easy to propagate from hardwood cuttings taken when plants are dormant.
FertilizingElderberries respond well to fertilization. In addition to incorporating manure or compost before planting, apply additional fertilizer annually in early spring. Apply 1/8 pound of ammonium nitrate (or .5 lbs. 10-10-10) for each year of the plant’s age, up to one pound per plant (or up to 4 lbs. 10-10-10).
Weed ControlThe most difficult problem faced when growing elderberries is weed control. Because they have shallow roots, do not cultivate deeper than 2 inches. After the first year, it is best to avoid disturbing the soil at all because the slightest injury can damage the fibrous root system or kill one of the new upright shoots. Use a combination of pulling weeds by hand while they are still small, mowing and mulching to control weeds without disturbing the elderberry roots. Once you develop a thick hedgerow of plants, elderberries can suppress weeds quite well.
HarvestHarvest elderberry fruit in late August through early September, depending on the cultivar. When ripe, the entire cluster should be -removed and the berries stripped from the cluster for use. Uncooked berries have a dark purple juice and are astringent and inedible. Use the fruit as soon as possible or keep it at a cool temperature for later use. It is difficult to transport elderberries because the fruits fall off the cluster during transit.
PruningElderberries send up many new canes each year. The canes usually reach full height in one season and develop lateral branches in the second. Flowers and fruit develop on the tips of the current season’s growth, often on the new canes but especially on laterals. Second-year elderberry canes with good lateral development are the most fruitful. In the third or fourth year, older wood tends to lose vigor and become weak. In late winter to early spring while the plants are dormant, remove all dead, broken or weak canes, plus all canes more than three years old. Leave an equal number of one, two, and three-year-old canes.
Choosing cultivarsIndividual flowers are small, white, and borne in large compound clusters. They are nearly self-unfruitful, so plant two different cultivars within 60 feet of each other to provide adequate cross-pollination. ‘Adams No. 1′ and ‘Adams No. 2′ are two old cultivars, introduced by the New York State Agricultural Experiment Station in 1926. They are strong, vigorous, productive, hardy to Zone 4 and bear large fruit clusters. They also ripen late, with fruit maturing in early September. Other cultivars with large clusters and berries include ‘York’,’ Johns’,’ Kent’,'Nova’, and ‘Scotia’. ‘York’ is somewhat more productive than the Adams series, and the berries tend to be larger.Diseases and InsectsElderberry plants are generally free of pests, which makes them great for landscape plantings. Powdery mildew is a problem in some years, especially when it affects the fruit. Cane borers occasionally cause damage, but are usually not present in large numbers. Pruning out infested canes is the best remedy for home gardeners.
sourced from:

www.fruit.cornell.edu/mfruit/elderberries.html

Tea Tree

Camillia species originated primarily in Japan and China.Apparently, growing this species of camellia from seed is verydifficult. Cloning from an established bush is recommended.?All species of camellia originated in Asia; mostly in Japan andChina. Camellia species are still found there in the wild today.

Young plants are raised from cuttings obtained from a mother bush andthey are carefully rooted and cared for in special nurseries untilthey are 1 to 2 years of age. The mother bush is carefully selectedfor propagation based on individual properties and yield. The teaplants can then be transplanted out in the tea fields. This process is known as cloning. Tea can also be grown from seed, however, due tothe degree of difficulty, cloning is the most widely used method ofcultivating tea. Tea bushes are planted from three to four feet apartand planted in rows which follow the natural contour of the landscape.Tea is also grown on specially prepared terraces to help irrigationand to prevent soil erosion.

Consider a greenhouse if you don?t live in a correct weather zone:?The tea shrub is hardy to Zone 8 (The country is broken up into'zones' with similar temperature and weather patterns. Zone 8 ismid-west to southern USA). If you don't live in these areas, don'tfret. You could try growing Camellia sinensis in a greenhouse, or in apot that you can bring indoors during cold winters.??For planting, Camellia sinensis likes well-drained and sandy soilthat is on the acidic side. If you are going to grow your tea in acontainer, add some sphagnum moss to the potting mix. You'll need somepatience, too. Your plant should be around 3 years old before youstart harvesting leaves.

Plant seeds immediately in a jar three-quarters full of moistvermiculite. Cover jar with lid or saran (with rubber band). Place jarin warm (not hot) place, and check periodically for roots along sidesor in bottom of jar. Remove sprouted seedlings and plant in pots.Return unsprouted seeds to jar, replace top, and watch for more roots.Seeds will not all sprout at the same time.

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Marigold

Annual, Tagetas Ercta, Tagetas Patula
Marigold plants are a very prolific, easy to grow annual flower. Kids love 'em and adults love 'em. Marigold flowers are available in a variety of colors, including white, yellow, orange, red and mixed colors. Marigold Flowers will bloom from mid-summer all the way until frost. They can be used for indoor arrangements, but give off a pungent odor that is sometimes too strong indoors.
Did you Know? Marigolds are considered companion plants that keep insects away. Many gardeners grow them amidst their vegetable crops.

Propagation:
Marigolds are grown from seeds. They like full to partial sun. Marigold seeds can be directly sowed into your flower garden, or seeded indoors for transplanting later. We recommend planting Marigolds in pots and containers indoors, then transplanting them outdoors. This allows you to make the proper spacing without the need for thinning seedlings.
Sow Marigold seeds early in the season and cover lightly with soil. Water thoroughly once. They germinate easily and will grow quickly, producing their first of a continual display of blooms by mid-summer.
Transplant Marigold plants into your garden after the last frost date for your area. Spacing depends upon size with miniature varieties spaced four to six inches apart, and Giant varieties one to two feet apart.
How to Grow Marigold Flowers:
Marigold plants like rich, well drained soil, but are very tolerant of average to slightly poor soils. Improving your soil quality will produce much healthier plants and flowers, so add plenty of compost. Add a general purpose fertilizer once a month.
Once your Marigolds are established, they should grow well, even if left unattended. Soil should be moist, but not wet. Water them during dry periods, once or twice per week.
Add mulch around the plants for appearance and to keep weeds down.
Around mid-summer, your plants will begin to produce flowers and will continue to do so up to the first frost. You do not need remove dead flower blooms, except for appearance.
Marigolds are annuals and susceptible to frost. They may survive the first light frost with only a little damage. They will not survive a hard frost or freeze.
Insect and Disease:
Insects largely avoid Marigolds. Insects do not like it's pungent odor. This is why Marigolds make good companion plants. You can even make an insect repellent spray from these plants.

While insects avoid Marigolds, slugs can do major damage. Slugs like to slither up the stem and chew on the leaves. They can destroy an entire flower garden of Marigolds. They can be seen on the plants overnight, in wet weather and early morning. If an infestation occurs, treat quickly to avoid major damage.

soursed from:

http://www.gardenersnet.com/flower/marigold.htm

Almond

An almond is a nutritious nut grown inside the fruit of an almond tree. The almond tree has the same classification as a peach tree. It is natively grown in Southwest Asia. An almond tree grows from 13 feet up to 30 feet tall. Growing your almond tree is fairly easy but requires two to three years to reach maturity. Read on to learn how to grow almonds.

Step1

Pick an area for the almond tree that receives full sunlight. The soil around the almond tree needs to be rich with nutrients.

Step2

Dig a hole for the tree that is large enough to bury the roots of the tree as well as any soil surrounding the roots from the tree's container.

Step3

Remove the tree from the container. Be careful not to harm any roots. Spread the roots out in the hole that you have dug. Fill in the hole around the tree.

Step4

Place plenty of compost or fertilizer over the tree roots and water thoroughly. Add more soil around the roots if needed.

Step5

Stick a small pipe or piece of wood into the ground to brace the tree. The almond tree grows quickly in the first year, but the trunk will not hold up to strong winds. Tie the almond tree to a pole or piece of wood.

Step6

Fertilize the tree with compost or fruit tree fertilizer. This is a good way to spike the growth of a new tree.

Step7

Maintain the almond tree by pruning the branchesevery year. This is best done in late winter or early spring before the new growth appears. When pruning, cut off dead and unhealthy branches first and then thin out areas where growth is bushy. Prune the bushy areas to allow sunlight and air to penetrate the tree, helping the overall growth of the tree.

Step8

Harvest the tree. The almond tree produces a small fruit during it's blooming season. When the fruit dies, it splits to reveal the pit, which is the almond. This is the ideal time to harvest the tree.

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German Chamomile

German Chamomile
An erect annual (Matricaria recutita), with small, daisylike flowers, is used to make chamomile tea and posessing a number of medicinal qualities.German Chamomile seeds are one of the few seeds that need light to germinate, so starting them by seed is a delicate process. It is best planted outdoors in August by broadcasting the seed and mixing very lightly with the soil. Alternatively, they can be started indoors in propagation flats in March and transplanted outdoors after a hardening off period. In most cases, direct planting in the garden after all chance of frost has passed are successful, as well. Once they are firmly established, German Chamomile is extremely hardy.Chamomile tea can be sprayed on propagation flats to prevent damping off. It is also believed to increase the absorption of calcium when added to a compost pile.

Growing German ChamomileGrowing CulturesOutdoors, containers, landscaping, mass plantings. German chamomile not recommended for containers.Plant HeightChamomile grows to a height of 20 to 30 inches (50 - 70cm).

Plant SpacingChamomile plants should be spaced 6 inches (15 cm) apart.Preferred pH RangeChamomile will grow in a relatively wide pH range between 5.6 (acidic) and 7.5 (neutral).

PropagationFrom seed. Direct sow in spring or fall. Fall sown seeds germinate following spring. Seeds need light to germinate.Seed Germination Period7 to 14 days.Seeds Per Gram (Approximate)10,000 to 18.000.Soil RequirementsWell drained, poor to average soil.

Alternative Growing MediaSoilless potting mixes, perlite, vermiculite, rockwool, coco peat, Oasis foam.Time From Seed to Saleable PlantSeeds to finished plugs, 6 weeks; plugs to saleable plants, 6 to 6 weeks.Sun & Lighting RequirementsChamomile grown outdoors prefers full sun but will tolerate some shade.Chives will grow indoors satisfactorily under standard fluorescent lamps, and exceptionally well under high output fluorescent , compact fluorescent, or high intensity discharge (metal halide or high pressure sodium) plant growing lights.

Keep standard fluorescent lamps between 2 and 4 inches from the tops of the plants, high output and compact fluorescents approximately one foot above the plants, and HID lights between 2 and 4 feet above the plants, depending on wattage. Have an oscillating fan gently stir seedlings for at least 2 hours per day to stimulate shorter, sturdier, and more natural plant habit.USDA HardinessAnnual.

Water RequirementsWater on a regular schedule, taking care to not overwater.Potential Pests & DiseasesAphids, mealybug. Minimal disease issues.Special NotesChamomile may be considered a noxious weed or invasive plant in some areas. Chamomile is known to attract bees, butterflies or birds and has fragrant blossoms. Chamomile self-sows freely; remove flowers (deadhead) if you do not want volunteer seedlings the following season.

soursed from:

http://herbgardening.com/growingchamomile.htm

Viola

Violas are primarily cool season bloomers. They are perfect for starting and ending the season in colder climates and for bridging the seasons in warmer zones, where they can remain in bloom throughout the winter. So when to plant violas will depends on your climate.
Starting Violas from Seed Indoors - Violas are easy to start from seed. In fact they are quite happy to self-seed all over your garden. But if you would like to start your own indoors, the process is very straight forward.
Start seed about 4 - 6 weeks before transplanting. Violas can withstand some freezing temperatures, so cold climate gardeners can pick a transplant date that is about 4 weeks before your last expected frost date. Warm climate gardeners transplanting in the fall should start their seeds in mid-summer.
Use a sterile potting mix.
Moisten the mix and fill your flats or pots to about 1/4 inch below the top edge.
Sprinkle 2-3 seeds in each cell or pot and cover lightly with more moistened potting mix. Note: Violas need darkness to germinate, so cover the seeds completely.
Set in a warm (65 -70 degrees F. / 18 - 21 degrees C.) location and keep moist. On top of the refrigerator is a good spot. Seeds should begin to germinate in 10 - 14 days.
Once the seeds sprout, move them to a sunny window or place under plant lights.
When the first true leaves appear, thin the pot or cell to the strongest looking seeding by pinching or cutting the others at the soil line.
At this point, a temperature of 55 - 60 degrees F. / 13 - 15 degrees C. is fine. You can also begin feeding your seedlings with any good balanced, water soluble fertilizer.
Moving Your Viola Seedling Outdoors - When temperatures and weather permit transplanting outdoors, let the seedlings get adjusted to the change by hardening them off.
Move the seedling to a shaded or protected location outdoors.
Leave them outdoors for about 4 hours the first day and increase the time outside by 1-2 hours each day, slowly moving them into brighter light. The seedlings will tell you if they are unhappy by their appearance.
Make sure the soil stays moist. Outdoor winds can dry pots quickly.
Seedlings can be transplanted into the garden or containers after about 10 - 14 days of hardening. Just be sure the weather isn’t taking a down turn. Violas can withstand some frost, but not a late season snow storm.
Direct-seeding Violas into the Garden - Weather permitting, you can start viola seed directly in the garden.
Good well-draining soil with organic matter is recommended.
Loosen the soil in the planting area and moisten.
Sprinkle the viola seed.
Cover with about 1/4 soil and water well.
Keep the seed bed moist.
As seedlings develop, thin plants to about 6- 8 inches apart. Transplant excess seedlings.
Purchasing Bedding Viola Plants - Violas are often the first seedlings for sale in nurseries in spring in colder climates and at the end of the summer in warm areas.
Look for healthy plants with lots of buds. Don’t be overly tempted by plants already in flower. They won’t transplant as easily and you’ll have a longer season of bloom if the plants are only in bud when purchased.
Remove the viola plants from their cell packs by pushing up on the bottom of the container. Don’t grab the violas by their delicate stems.
Gently loosen the soil around the roots and plant in the ground at the same level as they were in their cell pack.
Spacing: Mounding violas should be spaced about 6-8 inches apart. Trailing or spreading varieties can be planted 10-12 inches apart.
Days to Bloom: Violas begin blooming about 12-14 weeks after planting seeds. V. tricolor varieties bloom about two weeks earlier than V. cornuta. ‘Penny’ and ‘Sorbet’ will bloom 9-10 weeks from sowing.
Here are some suggestons for selecting , using and caring for violas in your garden designs and containers.

Caring for Violas in the Garden
Soil: Violas grow best in rich, moist, well-drained soil with plenty of organic matter. Use a slow-release fertilizer into the soil if planting in a container.
Water: Water regularly, but allow to dry out between waterings.
Sun: Violas like full sun, but not the heat it brings. This isn’t a problem in cool spring temperatures , but when planting in the fall, make sure they get some shade during the hottest part of the afternoon. Mulch and water will help offset the stress of high temperature.
Maintenance:
To promote blooming and extend the flowering period, remove or deadhead faded flowers by pinching off the blooms at the base of the flower stem.
You can revive leggy or overgrown plants by cutting them back to about 3-4 inches tall.
Insects and Diseases: Violas are easy to grow, with few disease or insect problems.
Powdery Mildew and Botrytis (Gray Mold) - Don’t let your plants sit in cool, wet conditions. Make sure your violas get plenty of sunshine and have good air circulation.
Aphids - Wash off with a strong stream of water, or, for severe problems, treat with an insecticidal soap.
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Lavender

Undeterred by the fact that it is a native of the Mediterranean and a lover of dry, sunny, rocky habitats, we give it a try anyway, hoping it will adapt. After all, England can hardly be considered dry or particularly sunny, yet English gardeners are renowned for their lavender plants. Think of ‘Hidcote’ and ‘Munstead’, two of the hardiest and best loved lavender varieties. This is a good place to start a discussion on growing lavender.
Growing Requirements As with most plants, your success in growing this coveted plant will depend both on what kind of growing conditions you can provide and which varieties you select to grow. Lavender plants will tolerate many growing conditions, but it thrives in warm, well-drained soil and full sun. Like many plants grown for their essential oils, a lean soil will encourage a higher concentration of oils. An alkaline and especially chalky soil will enhance lavenders fragrance. While you can grow lavender in Zone 5, it is unlikely you will ever have a lavender hedge. More realistically you can expect to have plants that will do well when the weather cooperates and to experience the occasional loss of a plant or two after a severe winter or a wet, humid summer.
Lavender is a tough plant and is extremely drought resistant, once established. However, when first starting you lavender plants, don't be afraid to give them a handful of compost in the planting hole and to keep them regularly watered during their first growing season.
Special Considerations It is dampness, more than cold, that is responsible for killing lavender plants. Dampness can come in the form of wet roots during the winter months or high humidity in the summer. If humidity is a problem, make sure you have plenty of space between your plants for air flow and always plant in a sunny location. Areas where the ground routinely freezes and thaws throughout the winter will benefit from a layer of mulch applied after the ground initially freezes. Also protect your lavender plants from harsh winter winds. Planting next to a stone or brick wall will provide additional heat and protection.
Pruning Although lavender plants get regularly pruned simply by harvesting the flowers, to keep them well shaped and to encourage new growth, a bit of spring pruning is in order. The taller varieties can be cut back by approximately one-third their height. Lower growing varieties can either be pruned back by a couple of inches or cut down to new growth. If you live in an area where lavender suffers some winter die-back, don't even think about pruning your plants until you see some new green growth at the base of the plant. If you disturb the plants too soon in the season, they give up trying.
Containers You can always grow your lavender in pots and move it to follow the sun or even bring it indoors for the winter. Keep in mind that although lavender has a large, spreading root system, it prefers growing in a tight spot. A pot that can accommodate the rootball with a couple of inches to spare would be a good choice. Too large a pot will only encourage excessive dampness.
Insure that the pot has plenty of drainage. To prevent water pooling in the pot, place about an inch of loose gravel at the bottom. Rot root is one of the few problems experienced by lavender plants. Use a loose, soilless mix for planting and remember that container grown lavender will require more water than garden grown plants. How much more depends on the environment and the type of pot. Water when the soil, not the plant, appears dry and water at the base of the plant to limit dampness on the foliage. Compact varieties make the best choices for containers. Some to try are L. angustifolia ‘Nana Alba’ and Spanish lavender (L. stoechas subsp. pedunculata)
How will you use this lovely lavender you'll be growing?

Besides being beautiful and aromatic, lavender flowers are also edible. They can be used raw in salads, added to soups and stews, used as a seasoning, baked into cookies and brewed into tea.
Unfortunately even if you do everything right and your lavender plants appear happy, the genus is generally not long lived and most lavender plants begin to decline after about 10 years. So keep starting new plants to carry you through your rough spots.
Recommended Varieties Lavandula angustifolia (English Lavender) Zones 5-8 'Munstead' An old-fashioned standard with blue-purple flowers. 18" tall
'Hidcote' is favored for its dark purple flowers. 24" tall
'Jean Davis' produces pale pink flower spikes. 18" tall
L. x intermedia Zones 5-8 'Provence' dries particularly well. 30" tall
'Grosso' is highly disease resistant and fragrant. 30" tall
L. dentata (Fringed Lavender) Zones 8-9 This is a bushy, spreading shrub that produces dense purple-blue flower spikes that are very pretty, but only mildly fragrant. 3' tall
L. stoechas (French Lavender) Zones 8-9 A beautiful Mediterranean native that is compact and bushy with fragrant, dark purple flowers topped by a feathery purple bract. Good cultivars include: ‘Dark Eyes’ and ‘Silver Frost’.
L. stoechas subsp. pedunculata (Spanish Lavender) Zones 9-10 Bears its flower stalks high above the foliage.

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Hops

The best way to start growing your own hops is by transplanting hop rhizomes (or cuttings) in the spring when they can be shipped and stored well. We recommend planting at least 2 rhizomes. Commercially, growers will plant up to 5 rhizomes per hill. Hops can be grown at almost anywhere or in any type of soil; however, they fair better in rich alluvial or sandy loom soil. They are very hardy plants but the hill they are planted in needs to be well cultivated to encourage proper drainage. They need plenty of water and food that will allow them to grow up to 1' per day, although not typically the first year. Plant the rhizomes were they will receive plenty of summer sun. They can tolerate temperatures in the 100's and below freezing. Hops can tolerate elevations up to 7000'; however, elevations below 3000' encourage more vigorous growth. Hops will grow to 20' in length during the first year. Therefore, plant the rhizomes with a plan for trellising your hops, much like a grape vine possibly. Lay your hills out at least 7' feet apart. Hops shoots can be trained to grow along guide wires, fences, heavy twine and a number of other elevating ideas; but elevate them so they will be easier to harvest. 1) Refrigerate your rhizomes until the soil is ready for planting. 2) Choose a southern exposure, if possible. An east or west exposure is acceptable but the hops will not grow as vigorously. 3) Hops prefer light textured, well drained soil with a pH of 6.0-8.0. If drainage is a problem, cultivate a mound for the planting. Definitely incorporate some organic matter such as manue or grass clippings into the soil, this is also a good time to add some slow release fertilizer such as cottonseed meal, bone meal, rock phosphate, oyster shell, etc. 4) Soak the rhizomes in warm water (approximately 80 degrees) for 1 hour prior to planting. Powdered root stimulates added to the water for soaking of the rhizomes and used during the planting process will bring the shouts out of the ground quicker. 5) Plant the rhizomes vertically with the buds pointing up or horizontally about 2 inches below the soil level. 6) Plant mixed varieties at least 5 feet apart. Identical varieties can be planted 3 feet apart. 7) First year hops have a minimal root system, therefore the soil should not be allowed to dry completely. Mulching the soil surface with some form of organic matter does wonders in conserving moisture as well as controlling weeds. 8) When the vines are about one foot long, select 2-3 strong vines and wrap them clockwise around a support system. This can either be a trellis, or simply a tall pole or strong twine coming down the side of your house. In future years, the earliest shoots should be pruned off in favor of training up the hardy second growth. After the main vines have been established, all subsequent vines should be removed from around the base of the hop. Always use strong twine because the vine can become quite heavy. Secure the taut twine to a stake at the have of the mound.

sourced from:

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www.coloradoorganichops.com

Garlic

Why Grow GarlicGarlic was originally a native plant of many thousands of years ago. Evidence of it has been found in caves inhabited more than 10,000 years ago.

Medicinal prescriptions were found chiseled into a clay Sumerian tablet that was more than 3,000 years old. Garlic is a key ingredient to a wide variety of recipes, and is quickly becoming regarded as a natural method to prevent heart disease and cancer - it is after all the second oldest medicine in the world.

Growing garlic is well-suited to both the first time gardener and the more experienced - given the correct soil and planting time, common garlic is relatively maintenance free, yet some of the more unusual varieties provide a challenge.

Where To Grow GarlicGrow your garlic in full sun - garlic needs to grow quickly in order to produce good sized bulbs. Pick a site that is not prone to water-logging, this will ensure the bulbs do not rot over winter.

Garlic can be planted in raised beds and they will grow very well. Click here to go to our page on raised beds.

Plant GarlicThe secret to growing garlic is to plant it in mid October - spring planting is possible in warmer areas, but even then, better sized bulbs will result from an autumn sowing. Dig the soil well to a spade's depth before planting, incorporating as much organic matter as possible to assist with drainage - garlic will rot in water-logged conditions. If you can purchase and dig in some sand (from your garden centre) at this stage, the drainage will be improved even further. A couple of handfuls of bonemeal should also be incorporated every square metre (yard).

Garlic bulbs for planting in Spring need not be bought from a nursery - simply choose the largest ones possible from your greengrocer or supermarket. If planting in mid October, choose a hardier variety such as 'White Pearl', these need to bought from your local garden centre. Each bulb will consist of up to 20 individual cloves, and it is these cloves which are to be individually planted. Gently remove the outer skin from the bulb (not the cloves) and separate into individual cloves - see the picture on the left. On the right is a garlic clove and on the left is the bulb. Select the largest eight or so of the cloves which will be on the outside of the bulb.
Plant each of the cloves in an upright position 2cm (1in) below the soil surface. Looking at the clove in the picture to the right, the bottom blunt end of the clove should be lowest in the ground with the pointed end just below the soil surface.

Space each clove about 10cm (4in) apart. If you are planting rows, space each row 45cm (18in) apart.

Care of Garlic
Garlic thrives on a well fed soil at the correct time, so in late March and again in mid May, feed the soil with general purpose fertiliser such as Growmore. If you can do this once or twice a month, so much the better. Apart from this, their only other requirement is to keep them free of weeds and in dry conditions water them. They will produce green foliage starting around April time.

Harvest GarlicGarlic is normally ready for harvesting when most of the foliage has turned yellowy-brown - this will be around mid August time. The problem with harvesting garlic is knowing when they are ripe - harvest too early and the bulbs will be small, harvest too late and the bulb will have split making harvest difficult and the cloves of low quality (they will have commence their growing cycle for next year).

Problems will occur mainly in wet summers - the leaves may only have started to turn yellow but if the garlic is left in wet ground at this stage, the bulbs will very quickly become diseased. For this reason a second method is needed to determine what stage they have reached. If the weather is wet in early August, pull up one bulb and see how many sheaths (very thin papery layers around the bulb) you can peel off the bulb - if there are only three, harvest the bulbs, if there are four or more, wait another two weeks or until most of the leaves have turned brown.
When harvesting garlic bulbs, gently ease them out of the ground with the assistance of using a trowel to loosen the surrounding soil - be careful not to bruise them with the trowel because they will then not keep for long.

The absolutely best garlic is fresh from the ground (known as wet garlic) - this garlic is sweeter, lees pungent and far more digestible than dried garlic. So make sure you use some cloves as soon as possible. The majority though should be be washed and dried and then placed in a warm dry place in the garden (bring indoors if rain threatens) to dry out - these bulbs should keep in good condition for 3 months or more.

sourced from:

http://www.gardenaction.co.uk/

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Shittake Mushrooms

Step1

Determine the growing season for shitakes in your area. The spores should be planted right around the time of the last spring frost. In the meantime, procure some shitake spores, which can come in the form of plugs, from a local, reputable dealer.

Step2

Obtain logs of hard word, about 3-8 inches in diameter, and no more thabn four feet long. Oak, poplar, sweet gum and some maples are a good choice. Rather than cutting down healthy trees, consider asking around to see if any local trees have already been cut down. No more than three weeks should pass between the time they were cut, and the time they`re planted. By that point, natural rot will have set in.

Step3

Drill small holes, about 5/16th-5/8ths of an inch wide, and an inch or two deep, along the logs, every six inches or so, stopping a few inches from either end, Rotate the log about two inches to one side, and repeat. Continue this process all the way around the cirumference of the log.

Step4

Fill those holes with the plugs of mushroom spores. Alternatively, mix the loose spores with sawdust and use the mixture to plug each hole. Then seal the hole with wax: brush over each hole with a paint brush that has been dipped in pre-melted wax.

Step5

Stack the logs in a shady area that also allows for good air flow on top of each other as you would Lincoln Logs, leaning vertically against each other or a stable surface.

Step6

Wait six months to a year for the spores to mature. At the same time, make sure to keep the logs moist, but not too moist. Water them in the drier months, but cover them with a tarp during rain.

Step7

Harvest in the spring and fall. Although production varies, each foot of log should produce about a pound of mushrooms.
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www.hawkin.com

Onions

OnionsEasy to grow with a long storage life, onions are one of the best vegetables for the home gardener.

They have the advantage of being a sensible proposition in both the large and small garden, and can be grown in the same position for several years. With a little planning, they can be available for nearly all year round eating.

The introduction of heat treated onion sets (small onion bulbs pre-started into growth before sale) now means that growing onions is almost fool-proof.

Onions prefer a a sunny position with a rich but light soil, however they will do well in most soils as long as it is firm. For this reason it is best to prepare the soil well in advance of planting - December time is fine for maincrop onions, June is best for Japanese onions. Dig the soil to 45cm (18in) deep, working in any organic matter available - remove any stones in the soil that you come across during the digging. Just before planting, tread the soil down so that it is firm.
Onions are ideal plants for growing in small confined spaces, they particularly thrive in raised beds. For more information click here to go to our page on raised beds.
When To Plant OnionsOnions should be treated differently according to their type. Each is described below.
Maincrop onion seed and sets (small, part grown onion bulbs) should be sown outside starting March. If they are sown under cloche protection, they can be sown four weeks earlier.
Japanese onion seed should be sown outside in mid-August.
Spring (or salad) onion seed should be sown at three week intervals from early April to early June.

sourced from:

http://www.gardenaction.co.uk/

www.allotment-diary.co.uk

Gogi Berries

How to Grow Goji BerriesOnce established, goji berries are incredibly easy to grow. They’ll grow in almost any type of soil, and can even thrive in poor soil, as they are used to the mountainous regions in the Himalayas. They are reasonably drought-tolerant, and will even grow in partial shade (though you’ll get more berries from them if you grow them in full sun).

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You can grow them from seed, or buy them as young plants. Buying young plants is far easier, as goji berry seeds are prone to rot in the compost and you’re less likely to get good results. The seedlings also need to be kept in warm conditions for 12 months, so for practical reasons, buying young plants is the more sensible option.
Once they’re a year old, however, they are perfectly winter hardy. Unchecked, they grow into a thick bush that reaches up to three metres tall, with vines that can grow to nearly four metres. If regularly pruned, they will form attractive small bushes that produce more berries as a result.
GrowingWhen your plants first arrive it is likely they will just look like bare twigs with some roots on. Don’t worry, this is normal. If planted straight away and watered well they will grow leaves within two-three weeks. Dig a hole around 50cm deep and wide and place the goji berry plant in it.
Firm the soil around the plant and water well. Leave about 1m between plants and mulch the area around the stems with leafmoluld or garden compost to keep the soil moist and well-nourished. You can even grow the bushes into a goji berry hedge; simply plant them 1m apart in a straight line.
FlowersAfter two years the bushes will start to fruit, and from four years you’ll start to get very heavy yields. In early summer the bushes will produce small, delicate, trumpet-shaped flowers that will be either white or purple. Both coloured flowers can feature on one plant, so they provide visual interest before the berry production begins.
The berries will begin to set in autumn. The ripe fruit are sweet and juicy and almost shiny in appearance. The flowers will continue to bloom right up until the first frosts, however, so your plants will be red, white and purple throughout late summer and autumn.
They are beautiful to have in your garden, delicious, nutritious, and cheap and easy to grow. If you want health-boosting berries on tap you should consider investing in a goji berry bush or two.

They’re the latest ‘must have’ miracle berry in celebrity circles. Said to banish cellulite, boost your immune system, contain more vitamin C than oranges and more iron than steak, this Himalayan berry is quite a catch. There’s one problem though, they’re very expensive to buy. Good news then, that these little red berries can be grown in the UK’s climate easily, and you can eat piles of fresh goji berries throughout the summer months from just a few, small bushes.
Growing your own goji berries is not only kinder to your wallet; it’s kinder to the environment too. They are now commercially grown in China, Mongolia and Tibet. The food miles involved in shipping them over to health shops in the UK are quite substantial, so if you have room for a bush or two in your garden or on your balcony, they’ll be a wealth of benefits involved.

sourced from:

http://www.fruitexpert.co.uk/GrowingGojiBerries.html

hamannfamily.blogspot.com

Echinacea

To most people, echinacea conjures up a herbal remedy for colds and 'flu - a vital boost to the immune system or a piece of harmless quackery. For gardeners, however, Echinacea purpurea is a versatile herbaceous perennial with handsome, long-lasting flowers. It is sturdy and self-supporting, hardy, easy to grow, undemanding, suitable both for the formal border and the meadow look.
The present high standing of this North American prairie plant is partly due to its being an important element in "new naturalism" gardens. Amenable to being disposed in drifts and rivers, it is a striking sight en masse with its large daisy flowers, warm pink, purple-pink or ivory-white according to cultivar. These appear over a long period from early July to September and are followed by attractive, long-lasting seedheads.

Growing tips
To grow well echinaceas definitely like a meaty soil that drains sufficiently sharply so that it never becomes waterlogged in winter. They are also best in full sun, although they will tolerate some shade. It is important to mix a good quantity of compost with the soil from the hole before planting and to keep the plant well watered until established. After that, an annual spring mulch is all they need.
Dead-heading will encourage the formation of more flower buds; alternatively, the seedheads can be left for winter decoration. You will have to accept that echinaceas sometimes die for no very obvious reason, although winter wet is a possibility.
The coarse foliage seems to shrug off pest and disease attack.
Propagation
Sow seed in early spring (Chiltern Seeds has a good selection on offer). The plants will often flower in their first season. It is also possible to divide plants or to take root cuttings in spring.

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Fig

Fig
trees are members of the genus group of trees known as Ficus. There are two types of fig trees: the caprifig and the edible fig. Caprifig trees are all male and their fruit is inedible. There are three varieties of edible fig trees.
The Smyrna variety of fig tree requires pollination to occur before it can produce fruit. If not pollinated the fruit will drop to the ground before maturing.
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The San Pedro variety of fig tree needs pollination for its main crop when planted in some locations.
The most popular type of edible fig tree planted is the common fig variety which includes, Brown Turkey figs, Celeste figs, Black Mission figs and Brunswick figs. Common figs do not need pollination to set crops and are therefore the easiest for homeowners to grow and care for.
Fig tree types are further divided by the color of the fruit. There are green/yellow varieties and dark varieties.
Fig trees are easy to grow in warm climates. They need to be planted in an area where they will receive full sun, at least eight hours a day. They should be spaced at least ten feet apart from other trees. The average fig tree will grow to be ten feet tall and ten feet wide.
Fig trees have a cold hardiness temperature of ten to twenty degrees Fahrenheit. If planted in the north it is recommended that they be kept in containers that can be brought indoors during the winter. Be extra careful in watering a container kept plant as they tend to dry out more rapidly. Depending on how far north you are, covering them with burlap may suffice.
When planting a young fig tree, be sure to place it in the hole with the top of the root ball at ground level. Use rich soil with at least 1/3 humus mixed in. After replacing the soil, mound up additional soil to form a water basin. Water the tree thoroughly and then cover the area with mulch.
Newly planted fig trees must be kept well watered until they have become completely established. After that they should only need to be watered in times of drought. Avoid over watering as a soggy plant will cause the fruit to split. Fertilize the tree every spring just before the new growth begins.
It is not recommended to start a fig tree from seed. Purchasing them at your local gardening center or propagating them is the better choice.
Fig trees are easy to propagate because they root easily. The easiest way to do this is to take leafless cuttings that are about six inches long and the width of a pencil in early spring. Put your cuttings into good quality potting soil in a pot that is lined with newspaper. Stand the pot in a warm, bright area and cover the cuttings with empty two liter containers that have had their bottoms cut off. Do not water the pot again until it is extremely dry. In time you will see leaves growing and the cuttings will form roots.
Wait until the new fig tree has a complete root system before hardening off. To harden off, you need to bring it outside for several hours a day making sure to bring it back inside at night. Do this for at least two weeks until it is acclimated to the new climate. After the young tree is hardened off you can transplant it outside.

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http://www.essortment.com/hobbies/growcarefigtr_solc.htm

Senna

Senna hebecarpa, commonly known as wild senna, is a North American native plant growing on damp soils in Ontario, the east coast of the United States, south to Georgia and as far west as Wisconsin. Despite its vigour and mass production of seeds (of which only 10-30% are viable) in cultivated situations, this plant is considered endangered. Wild senna grows along roadways, disturbed areas, fields and the edge of streams. However, changes in hydrology, development of land and succession of secondary species are thought to be reducing its numbers.

Medicinal uses of Senna hebecarpa are extensive, ranging from curing cramps to administering for fainting spells.

The extensive collecting of this plant for medicinal purposes (PDF) is also thought to contribute to the decline of this species in the wild.

How to grow Wild Senna - Cassia
If planning to grow Cassia outdoors from the off it is best to sow out the seed in either Summer or autumn at a depth of 3mm. Wild Senna like species should be grown in soil that has good drainage, in either a sunny or partly shaded part of the garden. When growing Cassia indoors first then you will first need to chip the seeds, then soak in warm water for three hours before sowing. They should be planted about 7 weeks before you transplant the seedlings outdoors, in the autumn or after the last frost of the spring. When putting the seedlings out they should be spaced at about 60 to 90cm apart.
Caring for Cassia
Once established Cassia requires regular fertilisation and watering; ideally they should be thinned in the autumn.

sourced from:

http://www.plant-biology.com/Cassia-wild-senna.php

www.ubcbotanicalgarden.org

Papaya

I have found the best way to germinate papaya seeds is to remove the arils surrounding the seeds, rinse them under warm water to remove the juice from the arils and soak them overnight in warm water. Discard any seeds that are floating after the soak.

Plant them in a soilless mix (do not cover them very deeply) and keep them in a warm (80 degrees F or so) area until they sprout. Don't keep them too damp or they are likely to suffer from damping off. I have actually started using seed starting plugs to germinate the seeds. With these there is a small hole in the center of the plug and seed is inserted into the hole and not really even covered.

The 2 biggest factors seem to be lots of warmth at sprouting time and never allowing them to stay damp. Even when they are monsterous trees they will develop root rot very quickly if allowed to have wet feet.

One other word on seeds from store bought papayas. If the fruit came out of Hawaii it probably was irradiated to kill any pest on the fruit surface. If that is the case the seeds will probably not sprout. I have never had any luck with seeds from the papayas from Hawaii for that reason. The fruit from Mexico, Belize and other locations in the Caribbean do not have this problem.

A great source for seeds (if you are interested) is Alhoa Seed Company in Hawaii. Their seeds are of very good quality and they offer some nice varieties.

source
forums.gardenweb.com

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Kiwi fruit

Description: Vigorous and ornamental, ideal supported on a sunny wall. Heart shaped leaves and charming clusters of moderately fragrant 1½ inch flowers. Grow 3 to 4 plants close together to produce Kiwi Fruit.

Sowing Instructions: Sow in trays, pots, etc of good seed compost in a propagator or warm place to maintain an optimum temperature of 70-75F (20-25C). Sow in well drained compost, just covering the seed with compost. Sowing Time: February to July. Germination usually takes 21-60 days.

Growing Instructions: Transplant seedlings when large enough to handle into 7.5cm (3in) pots. Grow on in a cold frame and plant out the following spring. Plant in full sun or part shade in ordinary garden soil. Space the plants 2m (6ft) apart.

source
http://www.backyardgardener.com/

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